CANADA’S CAPITAL OF COOL
An epic art scene, rebel vibes and seriously stylish restaurants make Montreal the hippest destination around
Don’t underestimate Montreal. With stunning art and an unmatched brunch scene, it’s the perfect city break
SURROUNDED BY RETRO BOTTLES OF ACID-BLUE BARBICIDE, framed film stills from Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas and custom monochrome graffiti by artist brothers Jeremy and Michael Shantz, I lingered for too long over my espresso, drawing out the last moments of my five days in Montreal. Of all the places to spend my final afternoon in the city, I didn’t imagine a barbershop in the borough of Saint Laurent would be one of them. I was in the neighbourhood searching out Trou de Beigne’s artisanal, hand-rolled maple bacon doughnuts and Chèvrerie du Buckland’s incredible raw goat cheese from Jean Talon Farmer’s Market, but made time to stop and say goodbye to a friend I had made just a few nights before, a super-skilled barber who’d given me the best restaurant tips. My desire to leave Montreal that day was so non-existent that, for the only time in my life, I nearly missed my flight, running through Montréal–Trudeau airport like a scene from a dodgy Nineties movie.
The best adventures are often the ones that start with zero expectations, and that’s exactly what happened with Montreal. Before I touched down in Quebec’s largest city, one bright but cold May morning, I’d done
“My favourite murals were those SO HUGE, you have to cross the road to appreciate their FULL SCALE”
little research for my trip, aside from booking a modern artsy loft on Airbnb. It promised a great location, in bohemian Mile End, close to Montreal’s most famous bagel shop: Fairmount Bagel. It even came with a guidebook listing brunch and dinner recommendations in the immediate area. I knew I’d picked the right place to stay. My only plans were to seek out incredible food, cool coffee shops and the city’s most intriguing art.
I soon discovered that Montreal is the perfect destination for a city break with an edge: small enough to get around on foot, but large enough to have a burgeoning art and gastronomy scene. Every piece of wall I passed en route to another restaurant was covered by huge, incredibly detailed murals and creative graffiti. During lazy mornings I’d walk all the way down Saint Laurent Boulevard, photographing abstract street art by world-renowned artists and political commentators along the way. Industrial-style coffee shops Café Nocturne and Dispatch Coffee punctuated my walks with velvety flat whites and expertly baked pastries, and it didn’t take long for me to realise that Montreal is as addictive as the city’s ethically sourced, perfectly roasted coffee beans.
My favourite murals ended up being the biggest and brightest, the ones hidden off main roads in abandoned car parks, or creations painted strategically between windows and doors, so huge that I had to cross the road to appreciate their full scale. Australian artist David ‘Meggs’ Hook captured my attention one afternoon with a 90ft-tall piece highlighting climate issues, depicting a woman holding a conch shell against a backdrop of coral pink hibiscus and tangerine-coloured daylilies. Hook’s Expand Your World was completed in 2016 as part of Montreal’s Mural Festival, yet still remains as, if not more, relevant today. I also fell in love with Mister Xray’s Lost Paradise, situated in a car park between Saint Laurent Boulevard and Rue Saint-Dominique. It features cartoon hand grenades, original typography and a colour palette inspired by the artist’s childhood in Florida. But the mural I kept returning to admire was a collaborative project between local artists Bryan Beyung and Gene Pendon. Their brilliant piece, May An Old Song Open A New World, next to Chinatown, depicts a Chinese opera singer against a bright red background (synonymous with prosperity and heroism in Chinese culture) and was created to celebrate the city’s cultural diversity.
Indeed, Montreal’s diverse population is unique in North America, with minority residential segregation
much lower than most US and European cities. This fusion makes for an incredible food scene with Asian, European, Latin American and African influences throughout Montreal’s restaurants and bars. Aside from poutine – the definition of comfort food, consisting of chips topped with gravy and cheese curds – I ate my way through Hawaiian-inspired poke bowls and zingy juices at Venice MTL. Elsewhere, neon signs and La Habanera’s icy Hemingway daiquiris transported me to Cuba, if only for a few hours, and Satay Brothers’ cloud-like bao buns provided the snack of dreams.
Brunch in Montreal is a real institution, so I made it my mission each day to linger over a mélange of small plates and coffee. Just me, my book and some of the coolest interiors the city has to offer. There’s something magical about sitting alone in an unknown place, savouring brand new dishes while observing the world. One beautifully cosy spot – Larry’s – turned out to be a 15-minute walk from my Mile End loft. Taking a spot at the copper-topped bar, my go-to dish soon became a stack of moreish homemade pikelets, paired with a side of smoked salmon and some seriously decadent scrambled eggs. I’d take turns, cheating on Larry’s with nearby Arts Cafe, where rich shakshuka and insanely good cheddar scones featured on the menu.
When I wasn’t hunting out restaurants or taking photos of Montreal’s street art, I’d walk to the top of Mount Royal, a small mountain with sweeping views right across the city, or hop on the metro to visit the biosphere – a wickedly photogenic yet eerie steel dome that sits adjacent to a whole museum dedicated to the environment.
On my penultimate day, I spent a few hours in downtown Montreal at MAC (Musée d’art contemporain), the city’s contemporary art gallery. Known for exhibitions from prominent artists such as Teresa Margolles and Olafur Eliasson, I was lucky enough to catch a whole show dedicated to Montreal-born legend Leonard Cohen, featuring his writing and music. One of his quotes replayed in my mind as I wandered back along Saint Laurent Boulevard toward my airy apartment: ‘I feel at home when I’m in Montreal – in a way that I don’t feel anywhere else’.
Although I wasn’t born in Canada, I know what he meant. There’s something about the city that’s reassuring and exciting in equal measure. Its relaxed vibe and the stunning restaurants, not to mention the cute barber, make for a heady combination – one that’s (almost) worth missing a flight for.
“Brunch is a real institution here so I made it my mission each day to linger over SMALL PLATES and coffee”