POSTCARD FROM... Seoul, South Korea
LONDON-BASED DESIGNER REJINA PYO ON THE SIGHTS, SOUNDS AND FLAVOURS YOU MUSTN’T MISS IN THE CITY SHE GREW UP IN
VINTAGE TREASURES Seoul is amazing for markets, especially for clothes. I love Gwangjang Sijang in the Jongno-gu district. I’ve been going since I was a teenager. It’s huge, so put aside a few hours to immerse yourself in it.
NIGHT BAZAAR In the Dongdaemun district, there are high-rise buildings full of clothes shops with incredible bargains. They open around midnight until 4am, so you can maximise your time in the city. Go on a weekday; it’s less crowded.
CREATIVE PURSUITS Seongsu-dong is an area with great cafés, boutiques and art galleries, such as Daelim Changgo: a cafe set in a former factory building with work by local artists on display.
HISTORY HIT Get a glimpse into traditional culture at the Korea Furniture Museum, up in the hills with wonderful views of Seoul. It’s really calming with classic architecture, near the Changdeokgung Palace. It’s in an old city and it’s very atmospheric – what people might picture when they think of Korea. There are lots of temples and pathways, so wear proper walking shoes!
FINE FLAVOURS The city is food heaven. Onjium is great for modern Korean food – it’s refined, so go for something special. Jangsarang is more low-key. I love its sujabi (like noodle soup) and muksabal, which is made from acorn jelly in an iced kimchi broth (sounds strange, but it’s delicious). Jeje is foolproof if you’re craving Chinese flavours – get the truffle dim sum and the chilli aubergine hotpot.
FAST FOOD FIX You can get a taste of Korea in most markets and the quality is incredible, like a Michelin-star restaurant but you sit on bar stools. Gimbap (like a sushi roll) is available anywhere for around £2. I recommend nokdujeon, too: a pancake made from mung beans. They grind the beans fresh in front of you.