OBJECT OF DESIRE

The lip-smacking smoked eel sandwich on the menu at

Quo Vadis, London

£9.50

quovadissoho.co.uk

Two thin slices of bread, toasted; butter; a dollop of mustard cream; a generous spoonful of horseradish; chunks of smoked eel; pickled red onion on the side. And, with a minimum of fuss but a maximum of flavour, that is Esquire’s choice for the nation’s most distinctive, most delicious, most desirable sandwich — an insanely punchy, delightfully heady experience that is over in moments but lingers in the memory for weeks. You could try to make it at home, of course. But our advice is to go instead to its place of conception, the London landmark that is Quo Vadis, on Dean Street, and eat it in the smart dining room there, fresh from the kitchen of its inventor, the amazing Jeremy Lee. It’s world-class tucker for less than a tenner. And it goes beautifully with a glass of the Hart Brothers Albarino (£9.50, or £24 for the bottle.) What the hell? Better get the bottle.