CHIN CHIN

Melbourne

I’ve probably spent more time in this raucous Flinders Lane restaurant than any other in Australia. I’ve been at 11 in the morning, when the doors first open, sat four hours at the bar by myself, and feasted with friends into the night. Why? Because chef Benjamin Cooper is a Southeast Asian master, and not afraid of true Thai flavours. Pastes pong, chillies burn, herbs gambol and frolic. Flavours don’t just sing but holler, joyously, to the celestial heights.

Spicy Isaan duck larb has a slow building heat, and a whiff both feral and exotic. “Scud City” jungle curry is peppered with fistfuls of insanely hot scud chillies while the Isaan-style chicken is so fierce that crowds gather to watch you eat. It’s the edible equivalent of nipple clamps and studded paddles.

But it’s not all about heat. Crunchy school prawns are expertly fried, and served with a rich roast tomato and turmeric nahm prik.

Pad seuw of wagyu beef is soft and majestic. Miang of spanner crab has subtle zing, while ocean trout salad is light and lithe. This is food that sets the senses aflame. Damned good cocktails, too.