Esquire (UK) - - EATS -

For four

Choices are of­ten in­flu­enced by bud­get and it is the econ­omy cuts and bar­gains that nat­u­rally ap­peal to the per­son in charge of the house­hold purse. Ad­di­tion­ally, there is of­ten an in­verse re­la­tion­ship be­tween ex­pense and flavour. The more costly op­tions at the butcher, fil­let steaks and chicken breasts, are not nearly as flavour­some as their cheaper coun­ter­parts, beef rib and chicken thighs. This is cer­tainly true of chicken liv­ers, too: in the bar­gain base­ment of of­fal but in the pen­t­house for flavour. When I re­cently bought chicken liv­ers at my lo­cal butcher on Seco Ma­rina, in­ci­den­tally, two things made me smile: the weight of the meat was (as is al­ways the case) slightly more than I had asked for but for the same price, and the liv­ers were wrapped in news­pa­per. Old school.

300g Flaky chicken sea salt liv­ers

Freshly ground black pep­per

400g dried tagli­atelle

A scant ½ chicken stock cube

Ex­tra vir­gin olive oil

75g but­ter

A small hand­ful of sage leaves

75g Parme­san, grated 1. Clean the chicken liv­ers in cold run­ning wa­ter, re­mov­ing the blood clots and fatty mem­branes. Lay on kitchen pa­per and pat dry. 2. Roughly chop the liv­ers and sea­son with a few pinches of salt and a twist of black pep­per. Set aside.

3. Bring a large pan of salted wa­ter to the boil and cook the tagli­atelle ac­cord­ing to the packet’s in­struc­tions. Re­serve a cup­ful of the pasta cook­ing wa­ter and dis­solve the crum­bled stock cube into it. Drain the tagli­atelle when it is just al dente. 4. Mean­while, heat a good glug of olive oil with half the but­ter in a large, heavy-bot­tomed fry­ing pan and, over a medium heat, sauté the liv­ers and sage leaves un­til browned.

5. Add the drained tagli­atelle to the fry­ing pan and mix the liv­ers and sage to in­cor­po­rate with the strands of pasta. Turn the heat up a lit­tle higher and add the cup of re­served chicken stock/ pasta wa­ter. Stir well for 1min more, then re­move from the heat.

6. Add the re­main­ing but­ter and most of the grated Parme­san, turn over a few times in the pan to make sure the but­ter is melted, and serve on warmed plates. Sprin­kle the re­main­ing Parme­san as a fi­nal flour­ish at the ta­ble.

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