Jo El­li­son on dress­ing up for sum­mer

Esquire (UK) - - Contents - By Jo El­li­son

Gen­tle­men, what will you be wear­ing this sum­mer? A cur­sory glance at the cat­walk of­fers all kind of propo­si­tions. You might want to slip into a Prada boiler suit, for ex­am­ple.

Just the thing to make that post-work tran­si­tion to the pub. Or, per­haps, the jazzy, metal­lic jacket is call­ing you — choose from gold and shiny at Ber­luti or Dolce & Gab­bana, or, at Ar­mani, bur­nished bronze. How about a fringed and hooded quilt coat, as seen at Craig Green?

Too di­rec­tional? Fatherly types will no doubt be taken by Ba­len­ci­aga’s triple-lay­ered trousers, a gar­ment made in banded denim and leather, to be worn belted nice and high on the waist.

What do you mean you’d rather not? Don’t you re­alise that the whole col­lec­tion, de­signed by Demna Gvasalia, was in­spired by dads, just like you, seen play­ing with their kids in the park?

It’s no sur­prise that or­di­nary men have a col­lec­tive ner­vous break­down when it comes to thoughts of sea­sonal fash­ion­abil­ity. Or just go into flat de­nial. To the ca­sual male ob­server, men’s fash­ion seems like a cruel and ar­bi­trary rid­dle, teas­ing with its clues and im­pos­si­ble to solve. In­stead of try­ing to ex­trap­o­late the codes of the sea­son, to sort its sim­pler truths, many just ig­nore it al­to­gether.

But even while this sum­mer’s fash­ions might seem at first alarm­ing, be as­sured this sea­son is one of the most ac­ces­si­ble yet. Even the most ex­treme ideas this sum­mer can be un­picked to your ad­van­tage.

For ex­am­ple, if you were to do noth­ing other than wear a sim­ple blue-striped shirt this sum­mer you would be bang on trend: the stan­dard of­fice shirt — long ban­ished from fash­ion as the dusty, fusty coun­ter­point to the mil­len­nial T-shirt — was given re­newed al­lure by Louis Vuit­ton, Junya Watan­abe and Loewe. Just make sure it has long sleeves.

Like­wise, with tailor­ing. Yes the baggy, over­sized blaz­ers at Ba­len­ci­aga were a lit­tle outré, but at the base of “dad­core” is a per­sua­sive ar­gu­ment for re­laxed tailor­ing and the rel­e­vance of the sum­mer suit. What’s wrong with a sum­mer suit? Ab­so­lutely noth­ing. Why would you strug­gle with a silly slo­gan T-shirt, or hy­brid sports pants, as has been so much the style of late, when a per­fectly sen­si­ble, smarter, age-ap­pro­pri­ate so­lu­tion is right there in front of you in­stead.

Fendi’s “Skype” look — shirt and tie on the top half, shorts down be­low — was con­ceived to max­imise one’s pro­duc­tiv­ity while work­ing on a tan. I’m not sug­gest­ing any­one should wear a tie with swimwear, but Sil­via Fendi’s re­laxed take on the work­place-to-week­end look, with its un­matched jack­ets and trousers, madras checks and easy wear­a­bil­ity, had a grown-up non­cha­lance that looked pretty good. The same at Her­mès, which fea­tured the most ap­proach­able pal­ette in the world — rust, navy, khaki and blue. Get­ting dressed this sum­mer is a breeze.

So, wear a tie to sports day; dig out that ill-sized suit; be bold in your bor­ing of­fice blues. Hell, put on a tie clip. Why not? Cor­po­rate style has rarely been so fash­ion­able. And if any­one asks why you’re wear­ing shorts with calf-high socks and your Chelsea boots, it’s not be­cause you’re a con­ser­va­tive scaredy-cat who can’t work out your sum­mer footwear, it’s be­cause you saw it on the cat­walk at Dries Van Noten, and it’s re­ally deadly cool.

Wear a tie to sports day; dig out that ill-sized suit; be bold in your bor­ing of­fice blues. Hell, put on a tie clip…

What smart guys are wear­ing this sum­mer: light khaki cot­ton sum­mer­weight suit soft­ened with a long-sleeved T-shirt and open san­dals, all by Her­més

Top left: of­fice shirt and loose grey sum­mer suit with (again) san­dals at Louis Vuit­ton Left: navy boxy-cut over­sized blazer with faded jeans and brogues at Ba­len­ci­aga

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.