Esquire (UK)

Pigging out on the restaurant pork boom

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Glazed, braised, spiced, smoked

> and barbecued, pork is the meat of the moment. These are the best places to eat it, from nose to tail Cured and smoked jowl, Pitt Cue A textural dream with a brittle roasted top and melting meat underneath. One big hunk comes with simple, refreshing apple “ketchup” (aka, sauce).

London EC2M; pittcue.co.uk Bacon naan roll, Dishoom

The term “game-changer” is apt for thick-sliced Scottish bacon slathered with chilli jam, sour cream and fresh coriander. Be sure to order off-menu and ask for sausage, too.

Edinburgh, EH2; dishoom.com Char siu Iberico pork, Xu

A sticky, sweet marinade enhances the richly marbled meat at this plush Taiwanese from the owners of steamed bun kings, Bao.

London W1D; xulondon.com Numerous dishes, St John

The king of offal unfailingl­y offers a wealth of innards on its dailychang­ing menu. And you’re in the safest of hands if feeling unsure. London EC1M; stjohnrest­aurant.com Ham, egg & chips,

The Scran & Scallie

Don’t underestim­ate this version of the staple: a whole bone-in ham hock arrives on a wooden board with giant chips, creamy mustard eggs and a jar of pineapple. Edinburgh EH4; scranandsc­allie.com Pork crackling with sour chilli, Smoking Goat

The best bit of your Sunday pork roast given the Thai grill treatment; hunks of ultra-crispy crackling served with a punchy chilli sauce.

London, E1; smokinggoa­tbar.com Lardo carbonara, Temper

Covent Garden

Not just pasta with lardo: pasta made out of lardo. Gossamer threads of fat make a devilish dish with duck egg yolk, lemon, sage and Parmesan. London, WC2H; temperrest­aurant.com Ham croquetas, Barrafina

As the exemplary Spanish tapas chain expands, we nod to this firm favourite: crunchy deep-fried crumbs coating steaming, cheesy Béchameldr­enched Serrano ham.

London WC2B; barrafina.co.uk

Pig’s head on toast, Blacklock City Not for the faint-palated: this braised meat starter is piled on toast, doused in gravy, garnished with pickles and a sly scattering of chilli.

London EC3M; theblacklo­ck.com Smoked maple-cured pork loin with chorizo sauce, The Sportsman

Maple syrup and pork are a match made in… Kent, where comforting flavours get the chi-chi treatment at this Michelin-starred seaside gastropub. Whitstable, Kent CT5; thesportsm­anseasalte­r.co.uk Crispy pig’s trotters, sauce Gribiche and crackling, Trinity

Adam Byatt is one of the few chefs to put (and keep) trotters proudly on his menu. Essentiall­y one very posh croquette, and a beautiful one. London SW4; trinityres­taurant.co.uk Crisp pigs’ ears, Sabor

London’s hottest new Spanish hangout serves all aspects of a suckling pig, from the whole thing, roasted, to the crisped-up ears with paprika aioli. London W1B; saborresta­urants.co.uk Old Spot belly ribs, Hawksmoor Extra fat makes these far juicier than back ribs; here, they’re slow-cooked until the meat slips away from the bones while tangy red cabbage slaw spruces up the palate.

Manchester M3; thehawksmo­or.com Pigs’ tails with soy molasses, Smokestak

Bite-sized rocks of pork, braised in chicken stock, glazed in soy molasses, eaten by hand off the bone. A bar snack worth getting messy over. London E1, smokestak.co.uk

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