Pig­ging out on the restau­rant pork boom

Esquire (UK) - - Contents -

Glazed, braised, spiced, smoked

> and bar­be­cued, pork is the meat of the mo­ment. These are the best places to eat it, from nose to tail Cured and smoked jowl, Pitt Cue A textural dream with a brit­tle roasted top and melt­ing meat un­der­neath. One big hunk comes with sim­ple, re­fresh­ing ap­ple “ketchup” (aka, sauce).

Lon­don EC2M; pittcue.co.uk Bacon naan roll, Dishoom

The term “game-changer” is apt for thick-sliced Scot­tish bacon slathered with chilli jam, sour cream and fresh co­rian­der. Be sure to or­der off-menu and ask for sausage, too.

Ed­in­burgh, EH2; dishoom.com Char siu Iberico pork, Xu

A sticky, sweet mari­nade en­hances the richly mar­bled meat at this plush Tai­wanese from the own­ers of steamed bun kings, Bao.

Lon­don W1D; xu­lon­don.com Nu­mer­ous dishes, St John

The king of of­fal un­fail­ingly of­fers a wealth of in­nards on its dai­ly­chang­ing menu. And you’re in the safest of hands if feel­ing un­sure. Lon­don EC1M; stjohn­restau­rant.com Ham, egg & chips,

The Scran & Scal­lie

Don’t un­der­es­ti­mate this ver­sion of the sta­ple: a whole bone-in ham hock ar­rives on a wooden board with gi­ant chips, creamy mus­tard eggs and a jar of pineap­ple. Ed­in­burgh EH4; scranand­scal­lie.com Pork crack­ling with sour chilli, Smok­ing Goat

The best bit of your Sun­day pork roast given the Thai grill treat­ment; hunks of ul­tra-crispy crack­ling served with a punchy chilli sauce.

Lon­don, E1; smok­ing­goat­bar.com Lardo car­bonara, Tem­per

Covent Gar­den

Not just pasta with lardo: pasta made out of lardo. Gos­samer threads of fat make a dev­il­ish dish with duck egg yolk, lemon, sage and Parme­san. Lon­don, WC2H; tem­per­restau­rant.com Ham cro­que­tas, Bar­ra­fina

As the ex­em­plary Span­ish tapas chain ex­pands, we nod to this firm favourite: crunchy deep-fried crumbs coat­ing steam­ing, cheesy Béchamel­drenched Ser­rano ham.

Lon­don WC2B; bar­ra­fina.co.uk

Pig’s head on toast, Black­lock City Not for the faint-palated: this braised meat starter is piled on toast, doused in gravy, gar­nished with pick­les and a sly scat­ter­ing of chilli.

Lon­don EC3M; the­black­lock.com Smoked maple-cured pork loin with chorizo sauce, The Sports­man

Maple syrup and pork are a match made in… Kent, where com­fort­ing flavours get the chi-chi treat­ment at this Miche­lin-starred sea­side gas­tropub. Whit­stable, Kent CT5; thes­ports­man­seasalter.co.uk Crispy pig’s trot­ters, sauce Gribiche and crack­ling, Trin­ity

Adam By­att is one of the few chefs to put (and keep) trot­ters proudly on his menu. Es­sen­tially one very posh cro­quette, and a beau­ti­ful one. Lon­don SW4; trin­i­tyrestau­rant.co.uk Crisp pigs’ ears, Sa­bor

Lon­don’s hottest new Span­ish hang­out serves all as­pects of a suck­ling pig, from the whole thing, roasted, to the crisped-up ears with pa­prika aioli. Lon­don W1B; sabor­restau­rants.co.uk Old Spot belly ribs, Hawksmoor Ex­tra fat makes these far juicier than back ribs; here, they’re slow-cooked un­til the meat slips away from the bones while tangy red cab­bage slaw spruces up the palate.

Manch­ester M3; the­hawksmoor.com Pigs’ tails with soy mo­lasses, Smokestak

Bite-sized rocks of pork, braised in chicken stock, glazed in soy mo­lasses, eaten by hand off the bone. A bar snack worth get­ting messy over. Lon­don E1, smokestak.co.uk

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