Pigging out on the restaurant pork boom
Glazed, braised, spiced, smoked
> and barbecued, pork is the meat of the moment. These are the best places to eat it, from nose to tail Cured and smoked jowl, Pitt Cue A textural dream with a brittle roasted top and melting meat underneath. One big hunk comes with simple, refreshing apple “ketchup” (aka, sauce).
London EC2M; pittcue.co.uk Bacon naan roll, Dishoom
The term “game-changer” is apt for thick-sliced Scottish bacon slathered with chilli jam, sour cream and fresh coriander. Be sure to order off-menu and ask for sausage, too.
Edinburgh, EH2; dishoom.com Char siu Iberico pork, Xu
A sticky, sweet marinade enhances the richly marbled meat at this plush Taiwanese from the owners of steamed bun kings, Bao.
London W1D; xulondon.com Numerous dishes, St John
The king of offal unfailingly offers a wealth of innards on its dailychanging menu. And you’re in the safest of hands if feeling unsure. London EC1M; stjohnrestaurant.com Ham, egg & chips,
The Scran & Scallie
Don’t underestimate this version of the staple: a whole bone-in ham hock arrives on a wooden board with giant chips, creamy mustard eggs and a jar of pineapple. Edinburgh EH4; scranandscallie.com Pork crackling with sour chilli, Smoking Goat
The best bit of your Sunday pork roast given the Thai grill treatment; hunks of ultra-crispy crackling served with a punchy chilli sauce.
London, E1; smokinggoatbar.com Lardo carbonara, Temper
Not just pasta with lardo: pasta made out of lardo. Gossamer threads of fat make a devilish dish with duck egg yolk, lemon, sage and Parmesan. London, WC2H; temperrestaurant.com Ham croquetas, Barrafina
As the exemplary Spanish tapas chain expands, we nod to this firm favourite: crunchy deep-fried crumbs coating steaming, cheesy Béchameldrenched Serrano ham.
London WC2B; barrafina.co.uk
Pig’s head on toast, Blacklock City Not for the faint-palated: this braised meat starter is piled on toast, doused in gravy, garnished with pickles and a sly scattering of chilli.
London EC3M; theblacklock.com Smoked maple-cured pork loin with chorizo sauce, The Sportsman
Maple syrup and pork are a match made in… Kent, where comforting flavours get the chi-chi treatment at this Michelin-starred seaside gastropub. Whitstable, Kent CT5; thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk Crispy pig’s trotters, sauce Gribiche and crackling, Trinity
Adam Byatt is one of the few chefs to put (and keep) trotters proudly on his menu. Essentially one very posh croquette, and a beautiful one. London SW4; trinityrestaurant.co.uk Crisp pigs’ ears, Sabor
London’s hottest new Spanish hangout serves all aspects of a suckling pig, from the whole thing, roasted, to the crisped-up ears with paprika aioli. London W1B; saborrestaurants.co.uk Old Spot belly ribs, Hawksmoor Extra fat makes these far juicier than back ribs; here, they’re slow-cooked until the meat slips away from the bones while tangy red cabbage slaw spruces up the palate.
Manchester M3; thehawksmoor.com Pigs’ tails with soy molasses, Smokestak
Bite-sized rocks of pork, braised in chicken stock, glazed in soy molasses, eaten by hand off the bone. A bar snack worth getting messy over. London E1, smokestak.co.uk