Esquire (UK)

M RESTAURANT­S’ BLACKMORE WAGYU TARTARE

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The M Restaurant­s’ supper club menu from executive chef Mike Reid was themed around the autumn rugby internatio­nals, featuring wine pairings and dishes from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and this stand-out from Japan:

Our Blackmore Wagyu tartare has quickly become a signature dish in our restaurant­s. Using, what is for me the finest piece of beef in the world, graded at 9++ and exclusive to M Restaurant­s, this dish is a nod to the classic tartare. Fermented roots replace the traditiona­l

pickles, anchovy mayonnaise gives it a beautiful salty seasoning, parsley purée that hint of earthiness and then a cured egg yolk for some richness without the mess of a runny yolk. This is all then finished off with our aerated beef, which is made from beef tendons, a part of the animal which is rarely used. We cook them in a fourday process of boiling, pressing and dehydratin­g before frying them to puff

up into light, Quaver-like crisps.

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