Esquire (UK)

Carl F Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual 41mm stainless steel and 18k rose gold case, cognac brown calfskin leather strap

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The resurgent independen­t watchmaker’s latest model ticks off a number of current trends. The 41mm Heritage Bicompax Annual is based on a Fifties’ archive piece with a “bicompax” two-counter dial, giving it a mid-century feel (tick); it’s available in two-tone steel and rose gold (tick); and it’s also limited (tick). There’ll be 888 of both the two-tone and steel models, determined by the company’s founding year of 1888, rather than out of deference to gamblers. It’s decent value, too. Behind that balanced dial, there’s a clever movement fuelling a chronograp­h and an annual calendar with date and month indication­s that only need adjusting on 1 March. The steel is a touch over £5k, with a premium for the solid gold detailing in the two-tone. Modest by the industry’s lengthy yardstick. RS £8,000; carl-f-bucherer.com

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