Esquire (UK)

The gold standard

An elegant facelift for a classic Swiss collection

- By Johnny Davis

Blancpain is sometimes referred to as “the world’s oldest-surviving watch company”. That’s technicall­y correct, given it was making watches in 1735. But it’s a technicali­ty that gets around the fact that, like many renowned Swiss watchmaker­s, the original Blancpain fell on hard times in the mid-20th century. The last member of the Blancpain family died in 1932, and its new owners closed it down. (For the longest continuous­ly running watchmaker, we refer you to Vacheron Constantin: founded 1755; still powering along.) Blancpain was resurrecte­d in the Eighties by the thenOmega executive Jean-Claude Biver and his friend Jacques Piguet. The pair set about buying an old farmhouse in Le Brassus and making good on their promise to produce “six masterpiec­es of watchmakin­g”, each with a different complicati­on: an ultra-slim movement, a tourbillon, a moon-phase indicator, and so on. These watches were objects of beauty as well as accuracy, defined by their simple, round double-stepped cases and their self-winding mechanical movements. In keeping with tradition, each Blancpain watch was once again made by a single watchmaker. Today, only about 20,000 are released each year. The brand’s most classical collection is its Villeret dress watches, named in homage to the village where Jehan-Jacques Blancpain was born. The latest addition to that family is the Villeret Ultraplate, which slims down the previous model’s case and comes in a smaller size (38mm). Available in steel or red gold, the dial is distinguis­hed by 28 hand-positioned gold appliqués that form the Roman numerals. Also the addition of a new date window. That’s a small but significan­t change, and one you imagine arose from no small amount of deliberati­on. After all, these are masterpiec­es almost three centuries in the making – give or take a few years.

 ??  ?? Above: the 18k red gold 38mm Villeret Ultraplate on brown alligator leather strap, £14,040, by Blancpain
Above: the 18k red gold 38mm Villeret Ultraplate on brown alligator leather strap, £14,040, by Blancpain
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