66-70 Brewer Street, W1 (020 7292 3518; marksbar.co.uk) That it is so hard to get into definitely
adds to the appeal of Mark Hix’s underground bar in Soho. (Ring ahead
to book.) Once you’re there it’s like being in an old-fashioned club: all low
lights, squashy chairs and strong, heady drinks. The espresso martini is made with Kahlua for a touch of
creamy sweetness (£12).