Evening Standard - ES Magazine
BREAD ALERT!
The great British sarnie is back and better than ever, says Joanna Taylor
Hot girl summer? Pfft, we’re all about carb girl summer. And thank God, because someone has to tackle the mounds of new sandwich offerings stacking up across the capital. No, we’re not talking about the high streets’ seasonal pre-packaged offerings. We’re referencing the fresh takes on slap-up sarnies that are joining the ranks of St John, Dom’s Subs and Max’s, here to further the revival of the great British sandwich.
Wacky Hackney crew Hot 4 U has closed its pop-up restaurant at The Prince Arthur and opened Beak at The Haggerston, where Matthew Scott’s signature, the juicy Beak Sarnie containing a sustainable patty of offcuts from aged Fosse chickens, is the stand-out dish. Meanwhile, at Margot and Hector Henderson’s Margot’s Pride in the Arcade food hall, you’ll find a range of carefully crafted offerings named after their loved ones, including the Owen Olive, stuffed Sutton Hoo chicken dressed with Dijon mustard, mayonnaise, crispy pancetta and garlic, and the Stella, crammed with chickpeas, tomatoes, cucumber, red onion and feta. In Clerkenwell, the newly opened Compton Deli’s Compton Club, featuring maple cured bacon and chargrilled chicken, will never not satisfy. And finally, it’s worth venturing to Peckham to sample the works of Mondo Sando at its brand new spot within The White Horse pub that opens on 14 July. The Chicken Tikka or the Fuso starring (wait for it) mortadella, stracciatella, whipped pistachio spread, grated tomato and rocket topped with lemon zest, crushed pistachios and green oil are not to be missed. You can pay me later.