HOWLING AT THE MOON

Douglas Blyde sips on a whisky with a difference

The moon affects time, tides and light, and is essential to navigation and migration in animals. According to those who practise biodynamic agriculture, lunar rhythms also act as a calendar for growing crops.

Mark Reynier, founder of Ireland’s Waterford whisky distillery, first became interested in biodynamics and flavour when he tasted two Burgundies from the same producer, one of which had been made with modern conventions, and the other biodynamically, free from artificial fertilisers, pesticides and herbicides. Reynier found the latter more vivid and palatable. It proved a Damascene sip, and given the fertiliser shortage worsened by war in Ukraine, prescient for a reset in the food production system.

Having already made organic whisky, Reynier wanted to explore how historic farming and growing techniques impact the flavour of whisky, so he released Biodynamic: Luna 1.1, the first whisky in the world made solely from biodynamic barley.

A generous dram, charged with flavour, Luna overflows with maritime aromas including clean seaweed, flavours of proving bread, bright barley, apricot nougat, almonds, hay and butter, and can be enjoyed whether you can see the moon or not. Biodynamic: Luna 1.1, £91.95 (thewhiskyexchange.com)