Evening Standard - ES Magazine

MAVERICK FLAVOUR

Douglas Blyde gets a whiff of rebellion and likes it

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There are many rules in wine and some of them are meant to be broken. The Pasqua winery situated in Veneto, Italy, boasts the third generation motto ‘house of the unconventi­onal’, and that it is, as proven by the brand’s provocativ­ely titled Hey French: You Could Have Made This But You Didn’t. The rule-breaking blend proved a first for the country upon release in 2020, thanks to it being a collage of four vintages and three grape varieties reaped from a unique location. Being one of the highest and breeziest sites in Soave, the Monte Calvarina vineyard is formed of 90-million-year-old black volcanic soil which contribute­s definition and minerality to the broad-shouldered wine. The field blend embraces locally prized Garganega, as well as Pinot Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. Powerful enough to stand up to roast veal or turbot on the bone, and extremely lavishly crafted, the slightly smoky, pineapple and nougat scented white can easily age 15 years if you can resist it, but good luck with that. £32, at harrods.com

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