RECONSIDERING CIDER

Douglas Blyde tries a revived take on the ancient tipple

‘Cyder was not always a forgotten child,’ says Paul Ross, head cyder maker at The Newt, Somerset. ‘Back in the golden age of the 17th and 18th centuries, it was really respected and cared for.’ No, the ‘y’ is not a typo but a conscious choice by the makers of The Winston Cyder to honour the beverage’s reverence. Designed to be served in a champagne glass, this iteration of the staple brew is a far cry from the tins you’ll find in the supermarket. The one I taste, the limited-edition 2018 expression, is rich, vibrant and clean with tiny, tickling, persistent bubbles. Poured from a pint-sized bottle complete with cork, it’s named in honour of a certain prime minister who would enjoy ‘imperial pint’ bottles of champagne followed by cognac. Local apple variety, Katy, stars in it and is brought to life in the Newt’s own orchards and a state-of-the-art, on-site press. At £35 a bottle, it’s rather more expensive than a pint down the pub, but trust me, it’s worth the investment. (shop.thenewtinsomerset.com)