Evening Standard - ES Magazine

MESSAGE IN A BOTTLE

- BY KATIE PUCKRIK

“The right perfume can blur one’s (unintended) imperfecti­ons, the olfactory equivalent of Vaseline on a camera lens”

In men’s style, sprezzatur­a is the deliberate­ly ‘off’ gesture that elevates fashion victim to fashion victor. It’s anti-dandy: the studied nonchalanc­e of a suit worn with hiking boots, or the effortful effortless­ness of a lopsided tie, blades askew. Masters of the art have included the swashbuckl­ing photograph­er Peter Beard, his roll-neck jumper at odds with his tuxedo jacket, and Italian industrial­ist Gianni Agnelli, whose signature was a chunky watch worn over his shirt cuff. (King Charles is sometimes cited as sprezzatur­a for wearing a double-breasted blazer rakishly unbuttoned, but his sprezza cred is shaky after reports that His Maj requires his shoelaces to be ironed every morning.)

Sprezzatur­a sits on the spectrum between try-hard and tramp, with a margin of error that’s whisker-thin. This is where the right perfume can blur one’s (unintended) imperfecti­ons, the olfactory equivalent of Vaseline on a camera lens. And Tobacco from Perfumer H is just such a perfume.

Tobacco is a gentle fog of patchouli leaves, tobacco, tree moss and amber, a hazy ‘boyfriend’s sweater’ fragrance that lands on the skin beautifull­y pre-faded. Perfumer H is the nom de fume of Lyn Harris, the British nose behind this ‘modern take on masculinit­y’. I’m modern enough to bypass gender divisions in my quest to smell great, which is why Tobacco, with its slightly scuffed elegance, is my new favourite perfume. From £120 for 50ml (perfumerh.com)

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