FOR THE SAKE OF SAKE

Douglas Blyde discovers an ex-champagne maestro’s new vision

Sales of sake plummeted by a third in its homeland of Japan over the past five decades. However, it has taken an outsider better known for his expertise with grapes rather than rice to realise one of the most harmonious, grand and versatile expressions, which, given its availability in more than 30 countries, has widespread appeal.

IWA 5 takes its name from a rice paddy in Shiraiwa on the outskirts of gastronomic town Tateyama, where it is not uncommon to come across such delicacies as firefly shrimp sashimi and even roast bear. Here, a $20 million brewery with restaurant and rooms designed by Kengo Kuma, the architect of Tokyo Olympic stadium, rises gracefully from paddies.

The project was masterminded by Richard Geoffroy, former chef de cave of Dom Pérignon.

IWA 5 is, he says, ‘on par with wine’ and can gather nuances as it ages in the bottle. ‘It is, in effect, a new style of sake compared to how it has been made for 1,200 years.’

Over four visits per year to Japan, Geoffroy patiently builds each edition of IWA 5, layering a palette of different brews and rice varieties leading to a rich yet weightless drink bereft of bitterness. Near magically, it can work through an entire meal of any culinary genre — including Peranakan, which Geoffroy adores — revealing different nuances whether served in a traditional, square masu sake cup or broad, crystal wine glass. Most interestingly, it reveals different characteristics depending on temperature. For example, chilled as low as 1C you might find aromas of cherry, while candied almonds appear from 35-37C. Its silken texture, meanwhile, is the definition of moreish.

After years at the helm of one of the world’s most prestigious champagne houses, Geoffroy admits: ‘Sometimes wine can be stuffy [but] with IWA 5 you can be playful. There are endless possibilities…’

Now let us go and explore them.

IWA 5 sake, £145, at harveynichols.com