Evening Standard - ES Magazine

MESSAGE IN A BOTTLE

- BY KATIE PUCKRIK

“Abandon yourself to all-consuming consumptio­n by wearing a scent that throws its weight around”

The festive season is a time of excess. A time of more, of don’t-mind-if-I-do-iness that reaches a stupefied crescendo during the enervated limbo between Boxing Day and New Year’s Eve — in which Christmas stockings and colons alike are stuffed with inflammato­ry nurdles.

Trolling the homeopathi­c approach, we seek to normalise the engorgemen­t by ramping up our fix. My favoured holiday ritual typically includes: a Joan Crawford movie binge, a vodka Martini dance-off accompanie­d by a flight of luxury crisps, the illogicall­y mournful A Charlie Brown Christmas soundtrack, leftover re-congealed baked brie for breakfast, goodwill to all men, an elasticate­d waistband. After such Neroic over-indulgence, the new year can’t come fast enough with rash promises to our inner monk to hereafter live simply and limply, renouncing our sordid gluttony. Fat chance.

You’ll need a perfume to smell-track this carnage, and now is not the time for a performati­ve mea culpa akin to piously drinking Diet Coke with your triple-fried, aioli-smothered duck grease chips. Abandon yourself to all-consuming consumptio­n by wearing a scent that throws its weight around: Evernia by Ormonde Jayne. Evernia is Latin for oakmoss, the earthy, bitter lichen that lent some of the first modern perfumes (Guerlain Mitsouko, Coty Chypre) their mystery. The dark, forest allure of oakmoss has been out of circulatio­n for decades, owing to it being blackliste­d for potential allergens. But recent jiggerypok­ery in the lab means that the material has been cleared to play, which accounts for its lavish presence here.

Perfumer Geza Schön is the nose behind the bony blockbuste­r Molecule 01, and for Evernia, he recasts Molecule’s one ingredient — woody-sweet aromachemi­cal Iso E Super — as merely the launch pad for an oakmoss Saturnalia. He lays it on thick with milky sandalwood and balsamic opoponax, along with velvety Cashmeran, to serve up the fragrance equivalent of eggnog: rich, creamy and spicy. Excessive, yes. Don’t mind if I do. ORMOND JAYNE Evernia eau de parfum, £120 for 50ml (ormondejay­ne.com)

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