DINING OUT (OF TOWN)

Fancy a day trip, or even a cheeky overnighter? Get yourself to one of these delectable restaurants, never more than a short trip away, says Joanna Taylor

SUR-MER, SUFFOLK

You know what they say: sometimes an oyster, a glass of champagne and a dressed crab is as good as a rest. Right? Founded by George Pell, current owner of London institution L’Escargot, recently refurbished six-bedroom hideaway The Suffolk and its stand-out restaurant Sur-Mer make for a brilliant seaside escape, just metres from Aldeburgh’s pebbly beach, boules pits and seafood shacks. The distinctly fruits-demer-heavy menu by chef James Jay offers plates of crunchy cod cheek nuggets and a deep dish of hearty Devonshire crab lasagne which must always be followed by the non-negotiable sourdough treacle tart. 152 High Street, Aldeburgh,

Suffolk (the-suffolk.co.uk)

THE DOUBLE RED DUKE, OXFORDSHIRE

If you’re in the mood to escape the city for a slap-up Sunday roast, look no further. Head to this vast yet cosy, 19-room Cotswolds stone haven for a walk around the countryside followed by a roll-me-home-worthy feast of smoked mackerel pate, then hyper-tender beef, pork or chicken among Farrow & Ball hues, antiques and crackling fires. Either that or hop aboard the 10-seater chef’s table counter, where maestro Henrik Ritzén and team are serving all things wood-fired. Watch out for the frozen Margarita machine or you’ll be tucked up in a panic-booked bedroom before you know it. Bourton Road, Clanfield, Bampton, Oxfordshire (countrycreatures.com)

MOOR HALL, LANCASHIRE

Looking for a truly unique experience? For those with cash to spare, this two-Michelin-star restaurant (which won first place in the 2021 National Restaurant Awards, FYI) with period rooms is the only way to go. Famed for its tasting menus created using the estate’s expansive kitchen garden, the large, peaceful dining room is tempered with the excitement of watching a brigade of chefs conjure up supper with majestic precision. Menus are fine tuned too often to keep up, but you can expect marvellous bites of local, seasonal produce every time. Prescot Road, Aughton, Lancashire (moorhall.com)

UPDOWN, KENT

Ruth Leigh and Oli Brown have spent years carefully restoring a Deal farmhouse to create a vibrant, fivebedroom oasis of calm decorated with art by the likes of Studio Lenca. It comes complete with restaurant and vine-clad, heated terrace, which makes for the most brilliant long-lunch spot on a sunny winter’s (or summer’s) day. Expect to find hearty portions of potato, Lancashire and chanterelle pie, pumpkin ravioli with sage butter and steamed quince pudding to whet your appetite, served alongside a short but sweet and highly affordable French-led wine list. Updown Farmhouse, Updown Road, Betteshanger, Deal, Kent (updownfarmhouse.com)

HOLM, SOMERSET

If you’re a fan of Levan or Larry’s in south London, you’ll adore their founders’ more grown-up edition in South Petherton. Holm serves a changing roster of mainly British and broadly European-inspired dishes utilising ingredients from the green, green county it calls home — you won’t be able to get enough of the Westcombe cheddar fries with pickled walnut ketchup, any of the croquettes or the brilliant selection of natural wines. Plus, there’s the option to settle in for the divine tasting menu, after which we’d advise booking a room for a snooze once it’s open early next year. 28 St James Street, South Petherton, Somerset (holmsomerset.co.uk)