HOW STODGE GOT SEXY

There’s a fresh wave of chefs taking comfort food to new heights

Stodge is one of those words laden with guilt. To many, though, it can be a delicious representation of the comfort food that leaves us feeling full and satisfied. Typically associated with the type of hearty, old-school fare which was pushed aside in favour of lighter, healthier dishes, certain recipes are being resurrected by chefs — this time elevating and modernising them.

Inspired by a character in Dickens’ Martin Chuzzlewit, at Hawksmoor, Matthew Brown has concocted a beefsteak pudding made with braised short rib, red wine, Somerset cider brandy and winter vegetables in a steamed suet pastry crust. Similarly, Sally Abe of The Pem has perfected a wild mushroom and truffle suet pudding. Meanwhile, on 7 April, reservations and events platform Sera is bringing together chefs Calum Franklin and

Ivan Tisdall-Downes for a pop-up at iconic pie institution M Manze, where they’ll be reimagining classic flavours including stargazy pie and ox cheek and oyster pie. Elsewhere, Anna Higham is shining a spotlight on brown butter buns and tattie scones at her new bakery, Quince; while at Fallow, the caramelised bread and butter pudding is built from all the trimmings accumulated in the restaurant; and around the corner Tom Cenci is dishing up treacle sponge at Nessa and Oliver Gladwin at Sussex is proud to serve spotted dick.

So what’s driving the resurgence of stodge? Gladwin believes diners want to ‘strip it back’ and return to familiarity due to overstimulation, while for founder of Sera, Justin Landsberger, it’s about preserving history. ‘We feel it’s important to get pie and mash shops back front and centre. If we can help preserve this institution [M Manze] in some small way, then we would deem it a huge success.’