FARANG

Evening Standard - West End Final Extra - - Staying In - @su­san­nah­but­ter Su­san­nah But­ter

The or­der

£7.50 £16.50 £2 £3.50 free To­tal: £29.50

The count­down

In an act of stag­ger­ing ef­fi­ciency, I or­dered on De­liv­eroo from the bus on my way home when I ad­mit­ted to my­self that I was too lazy to cook. Half an hour later, I ar­rived at my door at the same time as my din­ner. A smooth op­er­a­tion.

The op­tions

Min­i­mal — just three starters, three mains and a ne­groni (£9). This is a care­fully cu­rated menu and the lack of choice re­flects the high stan­dards of this restau­rant’s founder Seb Holmes — ev­ery­thing has to merit be­ing in­cluded. It changes ac­cord­ing to the sea­son but there’s usu­ally a beef curry, a chicken or fish and a veg op­tion. At the mo­ment it’s pump­kin and spring greens.

As good as eat­ing in?

prik wings are an ex­cel­lent Farang (which means white per­son) take on lo­cal chicken shop fare, while doughy turmeric roti is es­sen­tial for soak­ing up sauce and tak­ing the heat off.

The ver­dict?

Very dif­fer­ent. There’s a lot of cer­e­mony at the restau­rant — ★★★★✩ starters are del­i­cately pre­sented and It might be Thai done by white boys mains are hearty, de­signed to be (as they ad­mit), but they do it with carved up the­atri­cally and shared. At panache, and lash­ings of un­usual home it’s messier. Luck­ily, the flavour­ings that will leave you flavours are the same, an want­ing more. in­vig­o­rat­ingly fra­grant mud­dle of tangy, zesty and hot chilli spice. Gai

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