Extra volume
Why big and breezy is back
SPRING 2017 recently emerged as an excellent time to be pregnant. Not because the prospects for a shiny new generation are hot right now but because waists are off the agenda. At least they are in style terms, with a silhouette that comes with extra baggage allowance among the most approachable looks around.
With roots that go back to Phoebe Philo’s current Céline collection and its oversized poplin tabard shirts and slouchy empire-line dresses that fall away from the body instead of clinging to it, the balloon-shaped moment we are seeing in the shops is a luxury proposition reworked for an austere price point.
It’s making waves on the high street and not just in the places you’d expect — although Cos remains a master of the art — with everyone from Topshop to Mango sidestepping structure in favour of a shape that comes with added space.
To locate this trend, keep your eyes peeled for maternity-inspired smock dresses and the sort of oversized shirts that would have previously only appealed had you just enrolled in a life-drawing class — et voilà, you’re halfway there.
Having poured (squeezed) ourselves into high-waisted jeans and spent hours perfecting last winter’s tucking technique, this breezy development is something of a relief. Supremely comfortable and effortless too, it’s a low-maintenance trend — provided you’re inclined towards clothes that create a statement instead of flattering the form in a conventional fashion.
When you consider the outlook for women globally right now, this move towards clothes that disregard the promotion of the female silhouette seems far from surprising. After all, when there is misogyny to be beaten and 100 years of women’s rights to be protected, the importance of a dress that hugs the hips and demonstrates curves in the right places pales.
That’s not to say, of course, that there’s anything wrong or remotely “unfeminist” about a woman who chooses to fight gender inequality in a gold bandage dress by Hervé Leger — but a flowing cotton smock from Cos might be an easier thing to wear to the Women’s March.
At the heart of this billowing moment for women’s wardrobes is also the idea of protection and the sobering fact that many of us feel more at ease when our shape is not on display.
A few words of warning though: don’t come to this silhouette thinking it’s an easy way to hide all the bits of your body you’re not feeling entirely enamoured with. While a loose and languid shape can make you feel relaxed, a glance in the mirror may have the opposite effect. Notably because with all big and billowing clothing items comes the risk of looking like the John Peel tent at Worthy Farm.
To master the art, proportion is key. An
A-line tabard with no waist is best complemented by a pair of narrow anklelength trousers, while a billowing dress requires delicate shoes or sandals — not chunky boots.
Colour choice is also key. As a general rule, avoid prints — the desired look is directional Comme des Garçons goddess, not jolly art teacher, which means stark white and black are your friends. A dash of colour is fine too — see Mango’s flowing maxi frock — but be sure to keep the rest of your look fuss-free.
Fabric-wise, cotton and lightweight linens are great. Avoid anything too heavy such as knitted wool or coarse satin — after all, this is a spring trend designed to help you find some breathing space.
@standardfashion