The unspoilt Tenerife
The north of the biggest Canary Island has ancient forests, historic towns and not a sun lounger in sight, says Mónica Goya
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Kantjil de Tijger
THIS is the authentic Te n e r i fe ,” s ays a re t i re e sitting on a sun-facing bench with ocean views in the main plaza in El Sauzal. The relaxed atmosphere in this picturesque village is the norm in the verdant north, where living the slow life isn’t just an Instagram hashtag.
Last year more t h a n 5 . 7 mi l l i o n travellers visited Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, but only a quarter of them stayed in the north. An hour by car from the touristy side of the island, it’s a world away from the south. Here you’ll find excellent food, ancient forests, quiet beaches, striking mountains and charming towns. And all minus the crowds.
The tropical greenness of the north is astounding, especially as Tenerife normally conjures up images of arid landscapes and sunburnt Brits. Driving along the TF-5 road I spot vineyard after vineyard and stop at the wine museum at El Sauzal. There are wines from the i s l a n d ’s five appellations to t r y, including new producers such as Suertes del Marqués and Envínate.
Just a 20-minute drive inland, on the edge of Anaga Rural Park, sits the town of Tegueste. Its link with Latin America are on show at the local farmers’ market — Tenerife was once the gateway for new foods brought back to Europe from the Americas. The soft avocados, sweet bananas and juicy papayas are so unlike what we get in the UK. Turning off towards the laurel forest of Anaga, meanwhile, is like going back in time. With a microclimate closer to that of a rainforest t h a n Te n e r i f e ’ s u s u a l Mediterranean sunshine, this prehistoric forest has rocks thought to be seven to nine million years old. Home to gorges, peaks, isolated villages and endemic flora and fauna, the area was awarded Biosphere Reser ve designation by Unesco in 2015. There are beautiful walks — and a visitors’ centre at Cruz del Carmen offers information and recommendations.
Heading to Taganana, the winding road descends towards the coast, going between ravines before reaching the white-walled houses of the village. From here, picturesque Benijo beach and the Roques de Anaga make the ideal spot for a lunch with a view.
But it’s not all about nature. San Cristóbal de La Laguna, capital of the island until 1723, is a Unesco World Heritage site. La Laguna is now a vibrant city alive with museums, colourful architecture and nightlife. Highlights include the Plaza del Adelantado.
On the way to t h e Mo u n t Te i d e vo l c a n o, L a O ro t av a ma ke s for a wonderful stop, with its impeccable old q u a r t e r. I walk to La Casa de los Balcones to admire its handcrafted balcony from the 1670s, before heading inside to explore a museum and shop selling artisan crafts. Climbing up Mount Teide, the highest peak in Spain at 3,718m, is not for everyone (you need a permit iin advance) but a visit to this nn aa tt ii oo n a l p a rk s h o u l d s t i l l b e mamandatory. The cable car takes mme to an altitude of 2,356m — on a clear day you can see the six main Canary IIslands.
As well as black sand bbeaches such as El Socorro, the northern coast has unspoilt towntowns such as Garachico, once the maimain port on the island and ffavoured by the wealthy. Its fortunes cchanged when Montaña Negra erupted in the early 18th century, destroying the harbour — in its place, natural pools lie between lava rocks. It’s the perfect idyll to reflect on the north’s beauty.
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