Aloha! with attitude

broth flavoured with the local ti leaf.

It might seem an eccentric mix but in the capital of one of the most ethnically diverse states in the US, fusion is the norm. “Honolulu is a hotpot of different cultures,” says Lee, citing the influences of its Chinese, Japanese, Filipino and Portugueseg residents. “When I moved to HawaiiHawai almost eight years ago there was a small, growing food scene,” he notes, adding ththat it wasn’t until thepast twtwo to three years that the scscene began to explode.

One of Honolulu’s biggegest game-changers has bebeen the shift from postcardcard-perfect Waikiki to the more uurban environs of downtowntown HonoluluHonol and Chinatown. “The [area’s] reputation has one-eightied from a grungy, seedy place to a place for all ages,” says Andrew Le, chef and owner of The Pig And The Lady, next to Senia. The modern Vietnamese eatery has developed a cult-like following because of its pho French dip sandwiches — a cross between the American diner staple and the classic banh mi, cram-full of Thai basil chimichurri, bean sprouts and 12-hour-roasted brisket, and served with a side of pho strewn with clams, for dunking.

The lack of real estate in Waikiki, and the promise of low rent, encouraged Le to invest in the space. The gamble has paid dividends. “People saw our success and got encouraged to open up also.”

Le’s newest venture, Piggy Smalls, is based in another up-and-coming neighbourhood: Kaka’ako. The setting for POW! WOW!, an annual street art festival, the area has changed drastically in the past seven years, says Kamea Hadar, the event’s co-lead director. “When we first started, Kaka’ako was a no man’s land. But about a year later the first coffee shop opened.”

Established in Honolulu in 2011, POW! WOW!’s brand of vibrant wall art has since been exported to nine other cities around the globe. Now the trend for experimental eats and arts is even spilling back into Waikiki. No longer the preserve of chain hotels and fast food joints, boutique properties and smart eateries are popping up.

At newcomer the Alohilani, filtered prints of Hawaiian surf culture line the walls, organic toiletries fill bathrooms and yoga takes place on the rooftop pool deck. But arguably the hotel’s most compelling attribute is its two new restaurants, spearheaded by Japanese Iron chef Masaharu Morimoto.

Word about Honolulu is starting to get out, says Senia’s co-founder Chris Kajioka. “Ho n o l u l u is having its moment. It’s one of the most exciting food scenes in the US.”

DETAILS: HONOLULU

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