Leave your reservations at the door
All dressed up with nowhere to go? With London’s top terraces booked out weeks ahead, David Ellis maps the places welcoming walk-ins
CENTRAL
Given the centre of town has steadfastly maintained its 28 Days Later vibe since last March — a few glorious free-forall summer moments aside — it’s no surprise businesses are craving custom. Scaremongering and antiAsian sentiment left a oncecrammed Chinatown often close to empty. Many of the area’s top restaurants have new terraces with space saved for those passing by: go for a wander, but Jinli (jinli.co.uk), Dumplings’ Legend, Plum Valley and Lotus Garden (all chinatown.co.uk) have confirmed they’re holding spots. Nearby Soho is now boisterously busy and much is booked out for weeks, but like all Fullers pubs, the beautifully battered Coach & Horses (coachandhorsessoho.pub) is open to diary-shy drinkers, with half of its tables kept open. Expect the usual gaggle of Greek Street irregulars. After a pint, grab a cocktail at Swift (barswift. com) before weaving through Old Compton street to the revamped incarnation of Mr Ji (mrji.co.uk) and its Taiwanese-fried chicken. Or, if you’re lucky, Sri Lankan wonder Hoppers (hopperslondon.com) on Frith Street is holding places for those without plans, as it is in Marylebone and King’s Cross. It’s not just casual places keeping it, well, casual. Overlooking Hyde Park, undeniably high-end Hide (hide.co.uk) has half of its 70 seats kept free for those in the mood for Ollie Dabbous’ delicate menu. In Mayfair, there’s room promised at old school but forever fashionable French spot LPM (lpmrestaurants.com), while the Berkeley’s Blue Bar is headed outdoors for the first time with its one month-only Beach Club pop-up (the-berkeley.co.uk) pouring tiki classics and running a firm no-booking policy. Similarly strict is Alto at Selfridges (sancarlo.co.uk), the rooftop restaurant summoning a little Amalfi coast magic for walk-ins.
Finally, try Covent Garden; the area’s outdoors offering is twice what it was last year. For an old reliable, head to steak specialist Flat Iron (flatironsteak. co.uk), which is sticking to its tried-andtrue first-come, first-served stance.
NORTH
Out to get the drinks in? Head north. Up in Finsbury Park, much-loved Irish pub the Faltering Fullback (falteringfullback.com) is reopening its leafy maze of decking; on the good days, it’s a sun-trap, and even on the bad days, their Guinness is glorious. They’ve never allowed reservations and aren’t about to start now. Camden’s The Farrier (thefarriercamden.com) is taking bookings, but tables will be available for those without one. Besides the beer, food is the thing: head chef Ash Finch trained under Alain Ducasse, so there’s pedigree there. The place has a buzz
about it but, being brand new, might not be overwhelmed just yet.
Over in King’s Cross, try Coal Drop’s Yard, bustling with new outdoor openings. A wise first stop would be El Pastor’s Plaza Pastor (tacoselpastor.co.uk); the tacos here are little wraps of art. Not far away, Rotunda (rotundabarandrestaurant.co.uk) has a glorious position, with a large garden sat right on the waterfront; one for cocktails and canal boats. Nearby at the Granary Square Brasserie (granarysquarebrasserie. com), the new “jungle paradise” terrace is taking bookings but is welcoming walk-ins; under the heated umbrellas, the space is overflowing with flowers and other tropical touches, and there’ll be DJ sets and carnival-inspired entertainment to go with the easy-going, modern British menu.
If a play from the Jungle Book isn’t your bag, swap it for a wizard slice of Oz life. Queen’s Park Australian cafe Milk Beach (milkbeach.com) is built for allday dining, and tucked away among white-washed mews houses, feels something like a secret. There’s a little Italian influence on the menu too; the cobbled terrace only adds to the charm. For something a little rowdier, head up to Wembley where the Boxpark (boxpark.co.uk), like its sister sites in Shoreditch and Croydon, is strictly for those wandering in.
EAST
Dishoom is operating a walk-ins only policy at its two sites going alfresco, Carnaby and Shoreditch (dishoom.com). Granted, a Dishoom table has never been easy to land and always used to come with a queue — so heading this way should feel much like the old days. For more chance of simply sauntering in, try Andrew Clarke’s deceptively simple, rather pure, seasonal cooking at The Tramshed Project (tramshedproject. com). It sprawls onto pretty Garden Walk and, with about 50 seats going, is one of Shoreditch’s most commodious choices.
Further out but with a similar pedigree is the terrific Bright (brightrestaurant. co.uk) by London Fields, which is one of those spots you’ll go once and vow to return to repeatedly for its fresh, anglo-European plates and astonishing wine list. A handful of seats can be booked but most are being kept free.
Further east to the canal and Crate Brewery (cratebrewery.com) is walk-ins only; beers by the water, pizza on the side? A fantasy come true. Just downstream is another dreamboat, Barge East (bargeeast.com), and there’s more no-booking beers at Trinity Riverside (trinitybuoywharf.com), which opens Friday on Trinity Buoy Wharf by Poplar.
Don’t forget to have fun. While Roof East (roofeast.com) strongly advises booking, there’s usually room for walkins; there’s food and drink throughout, but you’re really coming for the games, including crazy golf, bowls and baseball.
SOUTH
Little pockets offering places to bounce between have popped up across south London. Take Nine Elms: Islington’s acclaimed Homeboy (homeboybar. com) has just opened its second site there with an enormous terrace, endless cocktails and a cracking menu. Around the corner is Robin Gill’s Darby’s (darbys-london.com), which always keeps a handful of tables back for spontaneous types after oysters and pies. Chance your luck at the pleasing, flower-laden terrace of Brunswick House (brunswickhouse.london) nearby, too.
Meanwhile, Brixton is buzzing with outdoor terraces. In Brixton Market, Sarap Baon (saraplondon.com) is walk-ins only — granted, the space is small, but this is Filipino cooking with real heart. Its market neighbour
Rudie’s (rudieslondon. com) is also keeping tables back; a plate of their fiercely marinated chicken is one of London’s must-have meals. Brixton is also the one for pubs: The Sun of Camberwell (suncamberwell. com), Duke of Edinburgh (dukeofedinburghpub.com) and Hope and Anchor (hopeandanchorbrixton.co.uk) all have cracking gardens — granted, likely crowded, but try — while local favourite
The Junction (thejunction.london) has put out tables, too. Still, if you’re really after a beer garden, London’s biggest is in Mercato Metropolitano in Elephant and Castle (mercatometropolitano.com), which seats 500, walk-ins only. Otherwise, take a stroll along the South Bank. D&D restaurants are promising space for those without bookings at all their sites, and two happen to be here. In Battersea, try Italian Fiume (fiumerestaurant.co.uk), while overlooking Tower Bridge, there’s another in Cantina del Ponte (cantinadelponte.co.uk). Between the two is Sea Containers (seacontainerslondon. com) and the Limin’ Beach Club (limin. co.uk). One of its three beaches is walk-in only: all offer cocktails in coconuts and Carribean-inspired street food. Otherwise, if all else fails, try Borough Market: there are seats being held throughout, including at Flor (florlondon.com).
WEST
Without the crowds to compete with, the chance of a casual seat in quieter west London is more likely. Try
Sumi on Westbourne Grove (sushisumi.com), which offers sushi from the skilled hand of Endo Kazutoshi. Notting Hill neighbour Farm Girl Cafe (thefarmgirl.co.uk) also has a no-reservations policy for its cute courtyard, as does
Granger & Co (grangerandco.com), which built its name on easy, faintly healthy Antipodean comfort food. Head south to swap the Gold Coast for the west coast and stop by
Hally’s (hallyslondon.com), which offers Parson’s Green a slice of Californian living; the sort of place for bagels and bowls of salad. Its neighbour, Koji, is staying closed until May, so Hally’s has doubled its space for seats in the sun or, as this month seems to have it, snow.
Bluebird (bluebirdcafe.co.uk) in Shepherd’s Bush has compiled its greatest hits for the terrace menu (and Chelsea takes walk-ins too), while Prairie Fire (prairiefirebbq.com) is the place for barbecue and beer. There are far more outdoor seats this year than last, meaning nabbing one shouldn’t be too difficult. Break free from booking Fomo: there’s a whole city ready and waiting.
The Coach and Horses is open to Soho’s diary-shy drinkers; expect the usual gaggle of Greek Street irregulars