The Daily Telegraph - Features
Barbecued burgers are not ‘horrible’ – if you cook them right
A US Michelin-starred chef isn’t a fan, but you can get great results from cooking on coals,
The American chef David Chang has dealt a body blow to barbecue fans across Britain. The owner of six restaurants across New York, Las Vegas and Los Angeles, who holds two Michelin stars at Manhattan’s Momofuku Ko, claims the UK’s number one back-garden favourite – the beef burger – should never be cooked over coals. Barbecuing, he says in the latest episode of his podcast The Dave Chang Show, is a “horrible” method for cooking burgers because it turns a “juicy burger into a guaranteed grease fire, [so] why use it?”
I’m not sure what goes into the burgers Chang is cooking, but beyond tackling the occasional flame, I find them a breeze to cook on the barbecue. They’re super simple to make and fun to eat too; no family gathering in my garden would feel complete without a line-up of beef patties and burger-bar toppings (caramelised onions, cheese slices, crispy bacon, pickles and so on) so my guests can make their burger their own.
In fact, the only issue I ever come across applies to whether you’re cooking burgers indoors or out, and that is how to make sure they’re cooked all the way through without drying out. When meat is minced, the bacteria on the surface spreads through the rest of the meat, making burgers unsafe to serve rare. So if you want to avoid food poisoning, it is essential to make sure they’re fully cooked – for which I’ve given a few tips below.
To achieve a brilliant burger for barbecuing, make sure to choose mince with a higher fat ratio for maximum flavour and juiciness. I use 20 per cent fat. Don’t overhandle or over-pimp the meat. Just season the mince with salt and pepper, shape into burgers and get them back into the fridge as quickly as possible. Let the exciting flavours come from the accompaniments you offer within the bun.
As for their formation, shape into wide patties about 1cm thick so they can cook quickly, achieving a seared, caramelised exterior while cooking all the way through. The burgers will shrink a little during cooking so make sure they’re at least as wide as the buns you’re serving them in. Unlike most meats that are best brought to room temperature before cooking, burgers should be cooked straight from the fridge. This will keep them intact and at their juiciest.
Now for the cooking method: first, make sure the barbecue bars are completely clean and debris-free. Get the barbecue to a steady, high heat (you should be able to hold your hand 5cm above grill level for 2-3 seconds). Cook the burgers for 4-5 minutes on each side but turn them as often as you like. Turning only once is a myth.
Don’t ever press the burgers with the back of the spatula; that just squeezes out the juices, drying out the burgers and sparking flames. If you do get flames, just lift the burger up and position it in another spot.
Crucially, use a thermometer to check they’re cooked through (they need to reach 71C in the centre to be safe), and allow the burgers to rest for five minutes before serving. Cooked in this way, your burgers will more than deserve their place at the table.