Food and Travel (UK)

Gourmet bolthole

THE ORANGE, PIMLICO

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The sun may have set over the Sloane Range but one-time Rangers still know how to throw midweek parties. The Orange, an outpost on the Pimlico fringe, rocks to the sound of oiled public school accents.

Above the bar in the dining room, the menu describes dishes with a copywriter’s aplomb: chalk stream trout; hay-baked Jerusalem artichokes; flame-roasted Lyme Bay mackerel. They all taste good but the real stars here are the customers, grouped in small parties – tables of three seem to be the fashion – determined to have fun.

The brouhaha below wafts up intermitte­ntly to the hotel rooms above but dies down about 11pm. Bedrooms are charming with little personal touches, like the spiral-bound notepad on the bedside table or the Aesop toiletries in the bathroom (with underfloor heating, by the way).

Colours are muted: taupe bedding, pale eau-de-nil silk curtains and oak floorboard­s. There’s decent cafetiere coffee to help the previous night’s revellers surface and the breakfast served in the downstairs bar, silent after the previous evening’s excitement, is first-class. MR.

Doubles from £205. 020 7881 9844, theorange.co.uk

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