2 Res­tau­rant La Faisanderie

France - - Bon Appètit -

Restau­rants in Ar­ras do not come much more at­mo­spheric than La Faisanderie, lo­cated in a re­pur­posed wine cel­lar in an old Flem­ish town­house on Grand’place, com­plete with arched roof and dimly lit cor­ners. The pe­riod set­ting is re­flected in the decor, which fea­tures white-cloth­cov­ered wooden ta­bles, tar­tan-lined chairs, green nap­kins in folded fan shapes, and ex­posed stone col­umns.

Dishes are dic­tated by what can be sourced lo­cally, us­ing recipes that have been passed down through gen­er­a­tions of chefs. From the menu gas­tronomique, I rel­ished the smoky scent of duck foie gras com­ple­mented by the sharp flavours of melon, rasp­ber­ries and bal­samic vine­gar. This was fol­lowed by grilled veal with a cel­ery and but­ter­nut squash mash, as­para­gus and gar­lic, which gave off won­der­ful aro­mas.

The meal fin­ished with a duo of cheeses ‘from the meadow’, which topped off a truly French meal, with a re­fresh­ing grassy and milky taste.

A reg­u­lar diner told me that he al­ways comes back to La Faisanderie when he is in Ar­ras be­cause each course of­fers an in­sight into how the French have dined for cen­turies, us­ing what they have avail­able on their doorstep. The chefs do not try any­thing fancy but keep things plain and sim­ple at rea­son­able prices, which suits lo­cals and visi­tors alike. Open Tue 7-9.30pm, Wed-sat 121.30pm and 7-9.30pm, Sun 12-1.30pm. Menu gas­tronomique from €30. 45 Grand’place, 62000 Ar­ras Tel: (Fr) 3 74 11 64 69 www.res­tau­rant-la-faisanderie.com

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