Visit a museum
• The Musée de l’accordéon et des Instruments de Musique Populaire (auvergnecentrefrance.com) in the hamlet of Siran in Cantal is dedicated to the personal collection of three Auvergnat brothers who loved to collect accordions. The national accordion centre in Tulle (tourismecorreze.com) has more than 500 instruments, the largest public collection of free-reed instruments in Europe. Exhibits include Yvette Horner’s dresses designed by Jean-paul Gaultier for the Bicentenary of the Revolution in 1989.
• For a slice of nostalgia, head for Chez Gégène (chez-gegene. fr) beside the River Marne in Joinville-le-pont, in the Parisian suburbs, where couples of all ages dance to the sounds of the accordion. A more modern ambience has been created at an open-air bal musette on board the barge Demoiselle in the Bassin de la Villette in Paris. However, the barge’s future is under threat from the city council, so see the péniche’s Facebook page (fr-fr.facebook.com/ bateaudemoiselle/) for updates.