WINES OF THE MONTH

France - - BON APPÉTIT - BY SALLY EAS­TON, MASTER OF WINE

SNAP IT UP La Croix d’ardit 2016, Bordeaux

There is plenty of wine here for less than a ten­ner and from the ex­cel­lent 2016 vin­tage. A plum and earthy nose leads into a smooth palate of sup­ple and fresh, ripe tan­nin of mod­est vol­ume, as be­fit­ting a wine for ready­drink­ing rather than long­keep­ing. Dark berries abound, along with black­ber­ries, hints of graphite and black pep­per spice. This is 60 per cent mer­lot, the rest caber­net sau­vi­gnon and an ex­clu­sive list­ing for Waitrose. Drink with: Welsh rarebit Waitrose: £9.99 waitrose.com

WEEK­END TREAT Château de Crézancy, Sur les Marnes, 2017, Sancerre, Loire Val­ley

This has an at­trac­tive con­cen­tra­tion and rounded tex­ture which isn’t al­ways present in Sancerre wines. A long, cool fer­men­ta­tion and ten months on lees have cre­ated a fluffy­light lemon-cream flavour/ tex­ture combo on the mid­palate. Clas­sic sau­vi­gnon blanc flavours of herby goose­ber­ries, gun­flint and lemon zest with tin­gling acid­ity show good depth and con­cen­tra­tion. Drink with: sim­ple, grilled or pan-fried fish, sautéed pota­toes Marks and Spencer: £15 mark­sand­spencer.com

TIME TO CEL­E­BRATE Do­maine de la Soufrandière, La Combe Desroches 2016, St. Véran, Bur­gundy

Broth­ers Jean-philippe and Jean-guil­laume Bret bought this 1.5 hectare cooler, north-fac­ing par­cel of St Véran in 2016, so this is their first vin­tage of this wine. There is no new oak here, though a third of the wine has been aged in at least ten year old bar­rels. The tex­ture is silky with a deep con­cen­tra­tion of fresh, hon­eyed lemon cream and peach com­pote flavour. It has a steely spine at the core of its nearly full body, and just the faintest hint of ap­peal­ing struc­tural phe­no­lics that frame the depth of flavour. Drink with: rich, creamy, veg­etable soup Berry Bros and Rudd: £28 Tel: (Fr) 3 85 35 67 72 bret­broth­ers.com

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