PLANT YOUR BORDER
STEP 3
Preparation always pays dividends so make sure you’re starting with a weed-free site and fertile, moist but well-drained soil. Dig over compacted ground and add plenty of well-rotted organic matter, which helps open up heavier ground as well as improving moisture retention in lighter soil. If you discover problematic perennial weeds, either dig them all out carefully or cover the ground with organic matter and a thick weed-proof membrane for a year, leaving the area untouched until the following autumn.
1 Plant the daisies and golden rod
Rudbeckia, helenium, helianthus and solidago all suit an autumn or spring planting. They’re robust, easy plants that soon bulk up if you’re struggling to buy large numbers – just use annuals to plug gaps for the time being. Lift and divide mature plants every three years to keep them vigorous and healthy. The rudbeckia won’t need staking thanks to its stocky, sturdy growth; helenium ‘Sahin’s Early Flowerer’ is that bit taller and may appreciate a few carefully placed hazel supports early in the season. Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’ is surprisingly wiry given its height and rarely needs support except in very exposed sites, or where you have extremely rich ground prompting spectacular extra-tall growth. Solidago rugosa ‘Fireworks’ is worth positioning with enough elbow room for its arching sprays to lean over without looking crowded by its neighbours. Give all these herbaceous perennials an annual mulch of well-rotted organic matter in autumn (or once the ground begins to warm in spring) when you can also tidy away any stems remaining from the previous year.
2 Add the hypericum
Hypericums are lenient shrubs that cope with pretty much any soil, but you’ll get the healthiest plants and best display in fertile ground, in sun or part shade. They won’t like a waterlogged site. Where plants become lanky or start to outgrow their space, they have the advantage of responding well to hard pruning in early spring, just as you would a buddleia. You won’t lose flowers and subsequent berries because they bloom on the same year’s growth, although it might push back flowering time. An annual spring prune also helps to tidy away any shoots that have been damaged by severe frosts over winter.
3 Finish with the achillea
Of all the plants in this border, achilleas need good drainage so it’s worth adding extra grit to their planting site if you’re on heavier ground, and holding off until spring to plant. The combination of wet and winter cold can be fatal to a young plant. It’s otherwise a resilient grower that spreads when comfortable. Cut back the first flush to encourage a second flowering (the butterflies will thank you too) but leave late flowers because the seedheads look beautiful rimmed in frost.