Small, twiggy growth and any dead wood also need to be removed to open up the base of the shrub to allow in extra light and a be er flow of air.
To carry out the pruning you’ll need a strong pair of secateurs and larger pruners for any thicker branches. A small pruning saw is also very handy to get into tight situations to thin out overcrowded stems.
I always say don’t rush when pruning; set aside enough time, preferably on a dry, fine day.
Make sure all your tools are sharp and in good condition to make the job easier.
Finish off by lightly forking the soil around the shrub to remove footprints and to allow air down into the soil to encourage root growth.
Erase all images from your memory of clipped shrubs that you see in supermarket car parks. That isn’t what you’re trying to create!
Have a close look at the shrub to identify the oldest, thickest branches that need removing and the newer growth that you want to retain and shape.
You can always cut out more, but you can’t put it back. When you’ve pruned out some old wood, stand back and look at the shape before cu ing out more.