What chemical can rot a newly created tree stump?

Graham Fielder, by email

Stefan says: I don’t recommend any, because I find they just don’t work. I’ve seen the advertisers’ recommendations, but some years ago I did a scientific trial of several products with the cooperation of a small private forestry estate. None had any noticeable effect.

Tree stumps, especially stumps of deciduous or hardwood trees should not be left alone. A newly felled stump – especially of some highly susceptible species including birches and apples – is the most common way for honey fungus to enter previously unaffected soil. The spores from honey fungus toadstools land on the sawn surface, germinate and the fungus then gradually colonises the stump and spreads through the roots to attack other woody plants growing nearby. I’ve seen it happen far too often.

What, therefore, can you do? I would always urge any gardener to remove a deciduous tree stump. The hardest way physically, but causing the least disturbance to the surrounding garden, is to dig it out, severing large roots.

The simplest way is by winching. This can cause some disturbance of the area nearby, and it is, of course, dependent on a contractor being able to bring his machinery or winching vehicle close enough. Winching is also a procedure to be decided on in advance because a stump left only 15cm high will give no purchase for the winch ropes; a metre or so must be left standing.

And, finally, grinding. That is my number one choice, if it is feasible. A stump grinder is a device rather like a giant mincer that chews the entire object into tiny pieces. Like winching, it requires a large machine and can be fairly costly; especially for single trees. Some stump grinders are also wide and don’t fit easily through many garden gates, although a local tree surgeon recently showed me a smaller and far more manoeuvrable machine that can still deal with a pretty big stump. Do speak to a range of local contractors to explore all possibilities.