Garden compost made simple
So, what is garden compost? In essence it’s a mixture of decomposing organic material that is beneficial to your soil’s structure, texture and valuable microorganisms. Garden compost shouldn’t be confused with sacks of bought seed and potting compost, which are specially formulated, consistent and usually sterile blends of ingredients that are therefore considered more reliable for growing plants in pots. Homemade compost, however, is added to garden soil, where it boosts fertility. It also enhances the moisture-holding capability of sandy soil by binding particles together and, conversely, improves the drainage of clay soil by forcing its tiny particles apart. It all sounds magical and indeed it is to some extent, although it’s magic founded on common sense and practicality.
Garden soil always contains some organic matter, but because this keeps on rotting down until it disappears completely, it should be replenished on a regular – usually annual – basis.
To make your own garden compost, you’ll need a compost bin to keep everything in, ideally one metre square and high. Two bins are even better, so you can be filling one while using the rotted contents of the other, once your system is up and running. Make the bins from wooden posts and wire netting or, with slatted wooden sides that are removable, for easy access. As I have a large garden, I’ve two wooden-sided bins side by side, each two metres square and high. Although not as environmentally friendly, you could get a second-hand plastic compost bin or get one free through your local council.
There are two main composting methods – hot and cold. Hot composting involves filling the bin to the brim with a mix of organic matter, then turning it regularly so that rotting is rapid and heat builds up. But as I believe that life is too short to stuff a mushroom, I think it’s certainly too short to spend time turning compost. Plant material that is no longer growing starts to rot. It’s up to us to utilise that capability and not to get in the way.
Cold composting takes longer, but doesn’t need turning. Just fill the bin gradually when organic waste becomes available. As this decomposes, it heats up but not as rapidly as the hot system. It will still rot down well over the course of six months to a year and, as I tend to fill my compost heap between spring and autumn, then empty it during winter and early spring, the system works fine for me. I don’t need the material to rot down any faster.
More options
There are a few other ways of making compost. With a wormery, the worms work on the organic matter and produce small amounts of crumbly compost as well as liquid manure.
Decomposed autumn leaves, known as leafmould, are another good form of soil enrichment or mulch. The leaves take longer to rot down than softer green waste – a year or more – so it’s best to put them in a separate bin, or in black sacks if you’re short on space. If they dry out, decomposition slows down or stops, so keep them moist.
You can buy well-rotted farmyard manure or spent mushroom compost to provide organic soil enrichment, but you’ll save money by doing it yourself.
And what about fertiliser? Think of that as adding vitamins to your soil. Garden compost gives it a good square meal, as opposed to a few pills. A combination of the two will keep your soil in good heart.
KEY POINTS
Decide if you want to use a hot or cold composting method Consider other methods such as a wormery
Make space for leafmould