How I grow Apples
Apple harvest is in full swing now, but my apple tree starts its work when it’s woken by the warmth of spring in March. During mid-winter, when the plot’s still dormant, pruning the apple tree is the one job I really get stuck into. I snip off top growth to three or four healthy spurs, remove any crossing branches and, more importantly, open up the middle for good aircirculation when the tree is bearing fruit come the summer. In March, I’ll apply some blood, fish and bone meal and cover the base with a layer of mulch – a mixture of homemade compost and straw.
As the spring weather warms up, codling moth can appear on the scene. It’ll only become apparent there’s been pest-damage when you see the affected fruits in summer or autumn. You’ll know when you cut open the fruit and the middle is riddled with maggots. Setting a pheromone trap in the tree will catch the male moths, so they can’t mate with the females to make those hungry larvae.
The next big event for the tree is the ‘June Drop’, when the weaker fruit in the clusters drop, giving the rest room to swell and grow. After that, if it’s a young tree, make sure it’s not deprived of moisture, especially during hot periods. Harvest will begin in late summer to mid-autumn, depending on the variety. Pick the fruit carefully, before storing them in crates stacked in a cool, dark shed.
VARIETIES TO TRY
With many to choose from, there is an apple tree for every garden situation. If you’re growing in a pot, try ‘James Grieve’ or ‘Royal Gala’ on a dwarfing M9 rootstock. For a small garden with limited space, go for a Starline variety, which grows in a narrow column without needing pruning. For a cooking apple, my favourite has to be ‘Bramley’s Seedling’.