18 KEY PLANTS

1 Brassica oleracea ‘Nagoya Red’ (ornamental kale) These colourful rosettes are more common in floral displays than in the kitchen garden, but careful harvesting from the centre of the plant provides tender leaves with a delicate flavour. The Nagoya series comes in a mix of fuchsia-pink and creamy-white shades that retain their colour when steamed and add a mellow flavour to autumnal game dishes. Sow in June for an autumn harvest. Plant through black matting to prevent soil splash on the leaves. 30cm. UDSA 7a-11†. 2 Tagetes lucida (Mexican tarragon) Produces a mass of small, golden-yellow blossoms and has a warm, peppery, anise-liquorice flavour that combines well with savoury dishes of veal, fish and eggs. Stronger in flavour than French tarragon, it keeps this robust flavour during cooking. Grow as an annual and cover the seed with vermiculite to help germination. Deadhead regularly for a continuous supply of fresh flowers. 90cm. RHS H3, USDA 8a-11b.

3 Raphanus sativus 'Longipinnatus' (red meat or watermelon radish) A robust radish with firm, crisp flesh and a light, peppery flavour. Eat raw, finely sliced on a mandolin, to appreciate its vibrant-pink colour. Also ideal for pickling, fermenting and cooking as a vegetable. Sown from July onwards, it takes eight weeks to grow and can be harvested from golf-ball to tennis-ball size. Slugs can be a challenging pest. 60cm.

4 Rumex scutatus (buckler-leaf sorrel) The shield-shaped leaves of this perennial herb have a sharp-sour, citrus taste, similar to Bramley apple skin. Use sparingly; the acidity of just a single leaf will cut through fatty meats and complement fish perfectly. Ideally, rotate on two patches and harvest from spring through to autumn, cutting back regularly to encourage new growth. Propagate by division. 20cm. 5 Brassica oleracea ‘Emerald Ice’ (Emerald Ice kale) A cool-season brassica with a milder flavour and softer leaf than other kales. As plants mature, the green, ruffled leaves develop a pretty white centre that is still visible when steamed or blanched in salted water. A compact plant good for small vegetable gardens. Crop the lower, outer leaves first and allow a harvesting period of several months. 60cm.

6 Brassica rapa ‘Tokyo Cross’ (Tokyo Cross turnip) A pure-white hybrid with a delicate flavour and crisp, juicy crunch. Can be eaten raw as a snack or cooked and served as a canapé with salted butter. Its clean, neutral flavour also lends itself well to a cooked garnish for fish, and the tops can be wilted for greens. It takes five weeks to grow from seed. Station sow successionally, in blocks or drills, for a continuous supply. 15cm. 7 Oxalis spiralis subsp. vulcanicola ‘Burgundy’ (velvet spiral sorrel) All oxalis contain oxalic acid, which gives its tangy, sour, sharp, refreshing flavour. Here 'Burgundy' with rich, wine-coloured leaves, is paired with Oxalis obtusa ‘Sunset’, which in autumn is a bright gold, and a green oxalis that has a much softer leaf texture than the other cultivars. A mix of cultivars adds a vibrant contrasting colour to a dish. Their acidity cuts through patés and terrines but also sits well with fish and adds a zingy surprise to salads. Grow ‘Burgundy’ and ‘Sunset’ as annuals and propagate from cuttings. Plants don’t like to be waterlogged. 20-30cm. 8 Brassica oleracea ‘Samantha’ (pointed savoy cabbage) A change from the traditional large round savoy cabbages this cultivar produces a small, neat, compact, pointed head with a good savoury flavour but softer texture. Reveal the pale hearts by stripping away the coarser outer leaves, cut the heart in half to steam, butter and then char on a griddle to add colour and enhance flavours. Pair with any meat dish or with fennel, caraway and apples. Plant closely together through black matting to prevent weeds and hold moisture in the ground. Ready to harvest in autumn from a June/July sowing. 38cm.