Weekend in… Menorca
Ibiza and Majorca may be the best known of the Balearic islands, but the quiet island of Menorca, home to several endemic plant species, has much to tempt gardeners
Visit the beaches, vineyards and galleries of this low-key island paradise
Of the four main Balearic islands, Menorca is often labelled ‘the quiet one’. But after almost 30 years of UNESCO World Heritage status, July’s planned opening of Hauser & Wirth Menorca – an ambitious new arts centre with landscaping by Piet Oudolf – the island’s distinctive character is being thrust into the limelight.
Exploring
Many of the perfect beaches around Menorca were, until fairly recently, only accessible to those who were prepared to swim part of the way, or abseil down a cliff. More recently, a hitherto overgrown network of 800-year-old bridle paths, the Camí de Cavalls, was cleared and signposted, offering the best way to see the island in close-up whether by foot, horse or bicycle. Find information on every leg of the 185km route at camidecavalls.com. Menorca is the largest UNESCO biosphere in the Mediterranean, reaching 12km into coastal waters. The island is diverse in habitat, with caves, ravines, lagoons and marshes. Car parking on beaches has been replaced by sand dunes that bristle with indigenous flora. Long-established nature reserve
Albufera des Grau is a magnet for bird watchers, as well as beach-goers, kayakers and walkers.
Mahón
Menorca has seen the comings and goings of foreigners for three millennia, while harbouring its own rich home-grown cultural life – as seen in the many megalithic and Bronze Age monuments that blend into the stony landscape. The port at Mahón, wide and deep, is one of the world’s longest natural harbours, and the town is particularly graceful in the quiet streets overlooking its clear waters. Calle Isabel II begins with the island’s museum and ends at the church of Santa Maria, passing 18thcentury houses that are discreetly palatial, such as Can Alberti, now a boutique hotel. Further along the way, Cristanal y Gradinata makes for a delightful drink and boccadillo before heading to the stately food and fish markets. Try to fit in a concert at the 1820s Teatro Principal, one of Spain’s oldest opera houses.
Es Castell
Towards the harbour mouth and across the water from Es Castell, Isla del Rey had long been a curiosity, with its decommissioned naval hospital and ruins of a much older basilica. But recently, having seen Menorca’s potential, like so many before, the art gallerist Hauser & Wirth has had the small island repurposed as an ambitious arts centre. Landscaping by Piet Oudolf will be revealed in July. Along the coast and facing the sea, Sant Joan de Binissaida is a grand old agroturismo, a farming estate with a restaurant and lodgings, on one of the loveliest stretches of Camí de Cavalls. Towards San Luis and its surrounding hamlets (one of which, Torret, has a good restaurant, Pan y Vino), the well-regarded winery
Ciutadella
Moving across the island, San Clemente is a classic Menorcan village with a small square overlooked by Es Casino bar, a meeting place for locals and visitors, and a fine place for coffee or calamari à la plancha. At the other end, the last truly artisan baker sells crespells de sobrasada, lard biscuits stuffed with the Balearic specialty of cured (and usually raw) spiced pork. He is sold out by 11am. The grocery shop sells local charcuterie and world-class Mahón cheese. Former capital Ciutadella is a beautiful old town, only some of which is very crowded. The season of fiestas, in honour of local saints and horses, begins here in June, progressing across the island towards Mahón. Lithica is a monumental and wonderful garden-in-progress, on the site of the island’s historic main quarry, Pedreres de s’Hostal.