Dublin and environs
Alongside historic estates, new gardens and restoration projects are putting Ireland on the horticultural map, and there’s no need to stray far from the capital to sample their delights
The surprise of County Wicklow is that the mountainous landscape, reminiscent of Ireland’s celebrated southwest, is only an hour’s drive from South Dublin. Between heavyweight gardens near Dublin such as Powerscourt and Killruddery, and newer gardens of growing renown such as June Blake’s Garden (Tinode, West Wicklow) and her brother Jimi Blake’s Hunting Brook, are dozens of places steeped in atmosphere and plantsmanship.
County Wicklow
Charm and Anglo-Irish gentility can be found in quantity at Kilmacurragh, which features a ruined house, built by the Acton family in the 18th century, and an arboretum paired with the National Botanic Gardens in Dublin. Corke Lodge “is as close as it gets to Irish tropical,” says our trusted source Joseph Downing. The sublime gardens surround an 1820s Gothic villa, owned by architect-artist Alfred Cochrane. The recently developed gardens at Trudder Grange surround a Georgian cube of a house, and Mount Usher has informal, self-styled ‘Robinsonian’ grounds, currently leased to retail food company Avoca, providing a café and bakery. The Dower House, Ashford – described by 18th-century artist Mary Delany as a ‘neatly laid out estate’ – is famed for its rhododendrons and magnolias.
County Kilkenny
In neighbouring Kilkenny, several garden restorations and works-inprogress are well worth a detour and are often open by appointment. The walled garden at Castle Blunden, an 18th-century family home flanked by small lakes, is being tackled by Regina Perceval-Blunden (email regina@castleblunden.com). Heritage expert Christopher Moore is currently restoring the five-anda-half-acre garden around Dangan Cottage (Thomastown), a late 18th-century dower house on the River Nore (if you want to arrange a group visit to the garden you can email cmoorespdec@gmail.com).
Kilfane Glen and Waterfall, the former home of the ancient Irish Le Poer (Power) family, is open in July and August, and in County Carlow, take a picnic to the bucolic Altamont House.
Dublin itself
If you’re stopping off for shopping, Powerscourt Townhouse Centre in Dublin offers a range of good boutiques and cafés under one splendid roof (including floral design studio The Garden). Just off Grafton Street, Stable of Ireland is a craft and design shop of dreams, supporting Irish weavers and makers. Just northwest of Dublin, 50 acres of landscaped and walled gardens around Tyrrelstown House are open to groups by appointment. The ancient park includes an arboretum and wildflower meadows. Closer to town, Farmleigh is the former hub of the Guinness family, now functioning as state guesthouse for visiting dignitaries. The house is surrounded by pleasure grounds and a working farm, and retains a family atmosphere despite being state-owned. Entry to the gardens is free of charge.
Dublin environs
In South Dublin, Monkstown village has a pleasant eating and shopping street a short walk from the sea, including Howbert & Mays garden shop. Dun Laoghaire Harbour has two lovely piers for walking; head to locals’ favourite, the west pier. Forty Foot is a swimming spot nearby; the water is freezing, but it is a popular spot and is located behind the Martello tower, which features in the opening chapter of James Joyce’s Ulysses. At weekends, nearby People’s Park hosts a farmers’ market. Further south along the coast, a hilly yet worthwhile walk begins from Dalkey village via Coliemore Harbour into Killiney Hill Park. Killiney is considered to be Ireland’s own Amalfi Coast; go for a swim, or just the view at Vico cove.