Riders Hotel, Laax, Switzerland.

Where is it?

In Laax, an Alpine ski resort where they seem to have burnt down all the cloying Heidi stuff and replaced it with cool, edgy, concrete-and-plywood architecture and interiors. But those mountains are still mighty impressive and the skiing – especially freestyle – is world-beating.

Why so lovely?

Bearing in mind a lot of the accommodation in European ski resorts looks basically like a cuckoo clock with rooms attached, this is a breath of fresh Alpine air with floor-to-ceiling windows, bare concrete walls, a bar that wouldn’t look out of place in the most hipster-esque part of East London or Berlin and an attention to detail that comes when the whole thing is put together not only by proper ski people – and we mean freestyle ski people, who are more like skateboard people or surf people – but also by art collectors who know their way around a cool second-hand chair and a quirky print.

First impressions?

Space and coolness. The reception is just a small desk by the bar, then you move through to a lounge area with retro furniture, views onto the forest (we spotted actual deer eating trees out there) and a vibe that is young and alternative with none of the snootiness you so often find in ski resorts. You’re more likely to come across a nose-ring than a Gucci ski-suit, let’s put it like that.

And the accommodations?

The basic rooms are a utilitarian dream of concrete and ply with famous retro designer light shades, a shower that is like a cupboard and duvets that are – somehow! – the talk of the town. Add floor-to-ceiling windows onto the forest and a lack of extras – no phone, no body lotion, no pad and pencil – and you’re looking at stripped-down coolness with maybe a dark green pot plant. Upstairs are suites that sleep four with baths and concealed kitchens and a cool bunk bed that you have to climb up a shelf unit – or that’s how it seems – to get into. They’re really designed for families but there’s not a reason in the world you couldn’t pile four mates in there and share the costs. And the cooking.

And the food?

The restaurant is proud to be the resort’s first full vegetarian restaurant with beautiful silky pumpkin soups followed by salads and pastas all made with organic ingredients, locally sourced if possible. This all happens in a plain room with more retro furniture and so little fuss, it almost feels like home.

What is there to do?

Ski. The resort is huge (walkable from The Riders) and beautiful with more than 200 km of runs and snow of such high quality you suspect someone made it in a laboratory. Whether you’re an absolute beginner or a daredevil, you’ll find your spot (they have the world’s bi¢est half-pipe, if that means anything to you, which means stunts!) And the people who come seem not to have that arsey gene you so often find at ski resorts: even when you cut them up, they’d smile and say, “Don’t worry. There’s plenty of space.” Back at the hotel, there’s a really rather cool nightclub downstairs (don’t worry, you can’t hear it) where the likes of Cypress Hill have been known to perform, and free live music in the lobby at weekends. Oh and the gym (with free yoga!) is literally the best hotel gym we’ve seen.

And the LGBTQ bit?

We spotted little ga¢les of LGBTQ’s but it’s not a thing. The vibe here is youthful and laid-back, so you can go about your business as you like without fear of a raised eyebrow.