Discovering Britain
For Discovering Britain this month Rory Walsh enjoys a contrasting view in north Wales
On a balmy July afternoon the A470 throngs with traffic rushing to and from Llandudno. The tarmac shimmers and windscreens glare. At a roundabout of knee-high grass, a lane directs visitors to Marle Hall. This historic stately home is now an outdoor education centre owned by Warwickshire County Council, a plot of Shakespeare country in the Conwy hills. Go into the nearby woods today and you’re sure of other surprises.
Marl Hall Woods blanket a steep limestone outcrop by the River Conwy. These 30 acres of mixed woodland and clifftop grassland contain a great variety of associated wildlife. They are designated as a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) and Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). The woods are maintained by this viewpoint’s creators, the Woodland Trust.
Information boards describe Marl Hall Woods as ‘A feast for the senses’. There’s plenty of sustenance during my visit. A path leads from Marle Hall car park and through the trees. Native and introduced species include oak, ash, larch, wych elm and yew. Their shade cools the air and skin alike. Then a smell tickles the nose: wild garlic. As the path climbs further, the roar of rushing traffic gives way to gushing water.
The source is Jacobs Ladder, a grotto with a waterfall. Its carved blocks seem surreal among the trees yet they are tangible evidence of centuries, if not millennia, of human activity. The grotto dates from the 18th century when the woods formed part of Marle Hall’s ornamental garden. Before then, the limestone was shaped by quarrying. There are caves in the rock dated to the Pleistocene era, c.12,000 years ago.
At the summit, a panoramic view opens up of the Conwy Estuary. On clear days the sights include Conwy Castle, the Great Orme, Snowdonia and Anglesey. Buildings and boats line the river like pebbles while mountains loom like clouds. But gazing at these landmarks from afar literally overlooks somewhere else. The limestone grassland of Marl Hall Woods can be as striking as the scenery beyond. From June to September especially, the hillsides become a magic carpet of plants and wildflowers. Several are rare. Colours and shapes to spot include the purple cones of spiked speedwell, vivid blue viper’s bugloss, the mini pineapples of ploughman’s spikenard, and the snowflake-like Nottingham catchfly. By stepping back and looking at the foreground, it’s possible to experience two remarkable views at once. Besides the vast vista, there’s another world much closer to these woods than the trees.
Information boards describe Marl Hall Woods as ‘A feast for the senses’. There’s plenty of sustenance during my visit