THE S FACTOR

Why you should give gin and soda a try

I have long been an advocate of the gin and soda, but I am often met with puzzlement, or sometimes even horror, when I recommend it. Only occasionally do I get the knowing smile of a co-conspirator...

So what is it? The gin and soda is striking in its simplicity: a combination of gin and sparkling water (or carbonated water, fizzy water, club soda, soda water, or seltzer). Whilst there is some variation between each of these, they are by and large the same thing: as the Spanish would say, ‘agua con gas’.

The concept of a gin and soda is not necessarily surprising, given that the most popular mixer for gin – tonic water – is essentially a flavoured sparkling water, and a great part of its appeal is the long, cooling effervescence that it adds to the drink. For those inclined to drink whisky, you may notice that a gin and soda is the gin version of a whisky highball.

How do you make it? For a gin and tonic, I like a just-over-2:1 ratio of tonic to gin. The recipe was suggested to me in my early days of gin discovery by gin-writing pioneer Geraldine Coates, and I’ve never looked back. For gin and soda, I might go a little bit longer and add more soda water. I typically also choose a slightly sweeter garnish, such as lemon or orange.

Regarding the choice of water, I’ve tried a huge range: from supermarket own-brand sparkling water at 17p for two litres to more luxurious options at 100 times that price. As a general rule, I’m happy with the cheaper ones; they’re clean, crisp, and have a lively level of carbonation. Beyond this, some brands worth trying include San Pelligrino, Q (Club Soda), Fever-Tree, Double Dutch, and Topo Chico.

Another option open to you is making your own soda water using a soda syphon (like the ones the Marx Brothers squirt each other with in old comedies!). Both new and old syphons are available and, with a bit of practice and patience, the process of making soda water becomes relatively easy. My top tip is to slightly underfill your soda syphon: the result is a bright, light effervescence, and a sense of theatricality as you top up your glass.

Why drink it? Please don’t misunderstand me: I love a gin and tonic. When done correctly, it can’t be beat, and any gin that doesn’t mix well with tonic will, I believe, have an uphill struggle in the marketplace. However, after a couple of drinks, the tonic can become cloying, and the sugar from the mixer starts to build up. In contrast, I have found that the freshness of sparkling water results in a cleaner, more refreshing mouthfeel. For new drinkers of the gin and soda, you may want to first try the “gin and sonic” (with a 50/50 mix of tonic and sparkling water) to retain some of the G&T’s sweetness.

It’s also worth noting that sparkling water doesn’t contain any sugar and typically has a nil calorific value. A brand representative for one of the premium tonic firms once mentioned that their club soda was easily their best seller in the trendy Kensington, Chelsea and Mayfair accounts. The reason? Socialites watching their figure wanted a drink with a minimal calorific intake. That gets me thinking about something a friend remarked to me recently when we were discussing “no and low” drinks: they believe it will become more encompassing as a concept, with the “low” referring to calories as well as alcohol. Perhaps, then, a better balance can be found, without total alcohol abstinence.

... the freshness of sparkling water results in a cleaner, more refreshing mouthfeel

Gin producers are also starting to get in on the act: Bluecoat Gin from Philadelphia in the US has released a superb “Gin for Seltzer”. The gin is bright and crisp with a solid dose of juniper flavour as well as extra citrus from dried yuzu and whole black limes. Here in the UK, both Chase Distillery and 58 Gin have released some canned gin and seltzer products, which all prove very refreshing.

Whether it be a pre-mixed version or one you’ve made yourself, I’d highly recommend giving the gin and soda a try; you never know, it might bring different flavours to the fore in your favourite gin.