Views, yews and honey-hued hotspots
In the first of a series of walks with HELEN GADD we explore the highways and byways of the Cotswold Way through its towns and history
IF you’re going to write a series about long-distance footpaths that go through Gloucestershire, there’s one obvious route you should begin your journey with. Most of the 102-mile route of the Cotswold Way remains in Gloucestershire. It is not until you are just a few miles short of Bath on the final section that you step into Somerset.
Beginning at the quintessentially Cotswold market town of Chipping Campden and ending in the splendid Roman city of Bath, this most English of longdistance footpaths passes through so many beautiful towns and villages your camera will be overloaded with Instaworthy images.
Alongside all the honeycoloured architecture, there is also mile after mile of lovely countryside and stunning views, from the tranquil beauty of villages like Stanton and Wotton-under-edge to the bustling market towns of Winchcombe and Broadway to the only city on the route at journey’s end.
The route is deceptively hilly and you need to be reasonably fit and energetic to tackle it, particularly if you’re planning to do entire sections that range from the gentle six-miler on the penultimate leg from Tormarton to Cold Ashton, to the far more challenging initial stage from Chipping Campden to Stanton.
But the rewards are manifold, as anyone who has tackled the Way will vouch for, from the uplands of the Cotswold escarpment with its magnificent views over towards the Malverns and the hills of east Wales to the gentle ramble along the Stroudwater canal and gentle meadows of south Gloucestershire.
It would take a small book to list all the wonderful places and communities you will pass through on your way south (or north, depending on your direction of travel), but here are a few of our favourites.
CHIPPING CAMPDEN IS WHERE OUR JOURNEY BEGINS
One of the loveliest of Cotswolds towns (and there are many), you are surrounded by honeyhued, historic buildings at the northern-most point of your route. For people who
appreciate order or are keen to share their journey with others, there’s a satisfying marker stone, only recently laid down, surrounded by a quotation from TS Eliot and a few names of the places you will pass through. Look out for unusual street names such as Hoo Lane and Birdcage Walk as you head for your first uphill slog over Dover’s Hill.
BROADWAY’S MYRIAD ATTRACTIONS
No matter when you visit this town, there will always be tourists here such is the attraction of its wide main street – or broad way - lined with handsome shops, houses and hotels. Take time to visit some of the notable attractions, including the delightful little museum that is an offshoot of Oxford’s Ashmolean, the fabulous Aladdin’s cave of scrumptious treats and unusual foods that is Broadway Deli and, of course, Broadway Tower, a windswept folly where artists from the Arts and Crafts movement enjoyed stays. Also listen out for motorbikes racing up and down Fish Hill, the steep and hairpin-strewn climb out of the town.
STANTON’S HOLLYWOOD APPEAL
I include this tiny village because its striking beauty has to be seen to be believed. It has been called the perfect Cotswold village and a Hollywood director’s English village ideal. Dating back to the 16th century, the village became neglected before it was restored and reinvigorated in the early 20th century, and now is the bolthole for those who can afford the sky-high property prices. And, unlike Broadway, it has not been overrun with cars or visitors so on most days you can enjoy the peace and quiet without too much interruption.
GARGOYLES IN WINCHCOMBE
Standing right on the path, Winchcombe has an important place in history, having once been the capital of the Saxon kindom Mercia and also home to Sudeley Castle, pictured right, where Henry VIII’S final wife, Katherine Parr, lived out her days. Look out for 40 gargoyles on St Peter’s Church, and wooden stocks outside the folk museum, and of course the rows of Tudor cottages. It’s also a great place to stop for lunch with its many fine pubs and cafes.
PAINSWICK’S 99 YEW TREES
Another popular honey pot for tourists, Painswick is famous for the 99 yew trees in the churchyard of St Mary’s Church where legend has it that the Devil won’t allow a 100th tree to grow. Apparently, they tried in 2000 when they planted another to mark the Millennium, but seven years later another tree toppled over. The work of the Devil’s curse? Try counting the trees for yourself – everyone seems to come out with a different number anyway.
STAND AMONG THE ANCIENT TRUNKS OF STANDISH WOOD
With its wildlife some of the best in Gloucestershire, this ageless wood dates back at least to 1297. Depending on when you are there, spring brings swathes of bluebells and other flowers, while some of the beech trees are well over 200 years old. As you crest nearby Haresfield Beacon, watch out for butterflies and orchids, as well as the kestrels and buzzards soaring overhead. You’ll also find a wealth of archaeological features, including long and round barrows, a hill fort and cross dyke – historical monuments over 3,000 years old.
NYMPSFIELD LONG BARROW AND HETTY PEGLER’S TUMP
An atmospheric spot where 13 skeletons, including a child enclosed in a stone cist, were discovered at this Neolithic site south of Stroud, probably an ancient site of ritual. The chamber is now uncovered, giving a good view of its layout to visitors. You’ll need to take about a half-mile detour to see Hetty Pegler’s Tump, which is another long barrow, this time still covered over. Anyone interested in ancient history will find these two sites fascinating and worth the detour.
DEER AND DELFTWARE AT DYRHAM PARK
These 264 acres of deer-grazed grassland are home to a herd of fallow deer reckoned to be one of the oldest in the country, mentioned as far back as 577AD. The park itself, however, was created in the 17th century, with its ancient steep and sloping parkland full of magnificent trees and breathtaking views. Wander among the borders, ponds and a wildflower orchard or indulge in a spot of culture inside the baroque mansion with its collection of fine art and Dutch Delftware.
Next week we take a walk along the Thames Path as it passes through Gloucestershire