THE BIG BEAUTY Q&A
What are acids all about? Can you make hands look younger? The GH beauty experts have the answers to your most frequently asked questions
Your dilemmas solved
SKINCARE STARTER FOR 10
In what order should I apply my products?
After cleansing (and exfoliating), the product with the lightest texture should be applied first – a serum, for example. Next comes moisturiser, if you need it. If you use an oil, apply it on top of the moisturiser. This is because oil can penetrate moisturiser, but not vice versa. SPF should go on last. Contrary to some advice, you can also mix and match ingredients without worrying they will cancel each other out. Just be careful about introducing too many new things at once to avoid possible sensitivity.
What should I look for in a serum and where does it leave my good old moisturiser?
Serums have a light texture, so it’s often reported that they penetrate deeper into skin than creams. However, the jury’s still out on this. They do have an advantage in that they mostly target specific needs with a high percentage of actives, so it makes sense to choose one based on your greatest concern – for example, dehydration, pigmentation, lines or wrinkles. They are also easy to layer, so you can tackle more than one issue at a time. Look out for ingredients like hyaluronic acid for hydration, vitamin C for brightening and firming skin and retinol for lines. Some of our favourites include The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, £5.90, Alpha-h Vitamin C Serum, £39, and Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum, £65. Whether or not you apply a moisturiser afterwards depends on your skin type and the serum’s formulation (drier skin will invariably feel tight and uncomfortable if you don’t). There is some evidence that ‘moistening’ skin with something watery, such as a serum or softening essence, helps a subsequent application of cream to penetrate deeper. This is the basis on which many brands make claims for using their serum and cream together for maximum effect.
My pores are getting larger and more visible with age – can I close them?
Pores don’t open and close, but they can look larger as skin gets older due to loss of collagen and elastin, which leads to the pore walls stretching and caving.
[continued from previous page] There’s nothing that can tighten them up again permanently, although salon treatments, such as derma needling and light or laser treatments, can improve their appearance. In terms of a skincare strategy, Paula Begoun, founder of Paula’s Choice Skincare, recommends using a niacinamide (vitamin B3) product with a strength of 4% or more to boost elasticity (look out for Paula’s Choice Skincare Resist 10% Niacinamide Booster, £40), a salicylic acid exfoliant to improve the texture of the skin and daily use of an SPF30 broad-spectrum sunscreen to prevent further breakdown of the skin’s supportive fibres.
What’s the best approach for sensitive skin?
Whether your skin is chronically sensitive (a genetic predisposition) or sensitised (when usually well-behaved skin reacts due to triggers such as stress, pollution or inappropriate skincare), Sally Penford, director of education at Dermalogica, recommends a strategy of repair, hydrate and soothe. The first step is to rebuild the skin’s protective barrier with lipid-rich skincare (think fats and oils) before you flood it with hydrating and soothing ingredients. Dermalogica Barrier Defense Booster, £69.50, and Dermalogica Calm Water Gel, £44.50, are designed to complement each other but can also be used alone – the first locks in moisture by reinforcing the skin’s barrier and prevents the soreness of sensitive skin, while the second uses glycerin and two different types of hyaluronic acid to boost hydration levels – both are gentle enough for conditions such as rosacea.
In addition, we recommend the gentlest of cleansing with micellar waters, creamy cleansers and balms, while avoiding fragranced products and those containing essential oils.
I’m confused about products with acids, such as glycolic. Which ones do what and should I use them?
The term ‘acids’ sounds scary but they have been used in beauty products for years. Think of them as exfoliators – but with more benefits than a flannel or grainy scrub. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAS) are extracted from all sorts of natural sources, including sour milk, fruit and sugar cane – the latter is widely used as a source of glycolic acid. As well as detaching dead cells (think brighter, more even-toned skin), prepping skin so that it allows serums and moisturisers to penetrate more deeply, there’s some evidence that glycolic acid can boost cell renewal. Plus, contrary to popular myth, over-the-counter beauty products containing it won’t thin skin over time. It can cause irritation for some, though. If you use one, expect to feel a mild tingle, especially if you’re new to acids – although some can cause mild peeling, depending on your skin type and the percentage of the ingredient used. The result should be fresh, luminous skin, but never red and sore skin. If your skin is sensitive, you may well struggle with glycolic acid. Thankfully, lactic acid and polyhydroxy acid (PHA) are gentler alternatives – and boost hydration to boot. You can also try using them just once a week, whereas those with less sensitive skin can quite happily use AHAS three times a week, or even daily if that’s what it says on the packaging – as long as your skin feels comfortable. We recommend using them at night, and if using glycolic acid, don’t forget SPF, as it can make skin more sensitive to the sun. Salicylic acid (sourced from white willow bark) is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that’s great for blackheads and breakouts because it’s oil-soluble, so it can penetrate deep into pores, helping to unclog them. You can use it morning or night but as a general rule, use an acid toner, peel pad or mask after cleansing and apply moisturiser afterwards.
HAIR HELP
My hair colour seems to fade very quickly. Are there any tricks to help it last longer?
When it comes to fading colour, heat and water are your enemies. Heat damages hair, while water swells and lifts the cuticle, allowing colour molecules to escape. So when rough drying your hair, do it on a lower heat setting, moving the dryer around to avoid overheating one spot. High heat settings and wet hair create steam, which is damaging. Avoid the hottest settings when using styling tools, too – ghd’s irons are set at 185°C, which it says is the optimum styling temperature to minimise damage. When washing your hair, keep the water warm rather than hot and look for shampoos and conditioners with Plex technology to help your colour last – such as Schwarzkopf Color Expert with Omegaplex and Charles Worthington Colourplex. Also, don’t be tempted to skip conditioner, even if your hair is fine. It helps protect cuticles and temporarily repairs pockets of damage. Stretching out the time between washes by one or two days will also reduce the chances of your hair fading – a good dry shampoo can help. We like Living Proof Healthy Hair Dry Shampoo, £14, Aveda Shampure Dry Shampoo, £23.50, and Batiste, from £2.99.
How can I give my hair more volume?
‘Unless you’re going to have extensions or a texturebuilding, soft-body perm, you have to have realistic expectations,’ says hairdresser Andrew Barton. However,
[continued from previous page] there are some tricks to try. For example, if you colour your hair, you can create the illusion of texture and volume by swapping flat-looking block colours for multi-tonal highlights. As for cuts, ‘Layers reduce volume, making fine hair limper,’ says Andrew. ‘But some subtle layering around the face adds more lift when styling.’ For a super-speedy volume boost, Charles Worthington hair ambassador, Ken O’rourke, suggests changing your parting. ‘Not only does it create a fresh new look, but it automatically creates the illusion of thicker, fuller-looking hair.’ Also, clean your hairbrush regularly with a mild detergent. This will remove product build-up, oils and dust that can be transferred back to the hair, weighing it down further.
My hair’s getting thinner all the time. Help!
If you have noticed a sudden increase in hair loss, speak to your GP to rule out any underlining health issues, such as low iron levels. However, a gradual decline in hair density is, sadly, a normal part of the ageing process. New research suggests that vitamin D is key to maintaining healthy, thick hair. ‘All hair follicles have a vitamin D receptor attached to them and, as we can’t acquire enough through the foods we eat, taking a daily vitamin D3 supplement is crucial in helping to boost hair strength and thickness,’ says trichologist Anabel Kingsley. She also warns against obsessively examining your hair. ‘I see clients who, through constantly looking at and pulling their hair to check its condition, have affected its growth cycle, causing it to become weaker and thinner.’ To give thin hair a temporary injection of fullness, our testers have been impressed with Swell haircare (Marks & Spencer), Nioxin and Pureology Pure Volume.
My hair tends to be greasy at the roots but very dry at the ends. What should I do?
It sounds obvious, but regular trims will remove the oldest parts of your hair, which also happen to be the driest due to the damage caused by colouring and styling. To remove build-up and to stop hair feeling weighed down, Pantene Pro-v and Aussie haircare ambassador Ben Cooke suggests gently massaging your scalp as you shampoo. ‘If you wash your hair at night, make sure it’s 100% dry before going to bed,’ says Ben. ‘Damp sections will create humidity while you sleep, so you’ll wake up to greasy roots.’ You might also just have to bite the bullet and wash your hair daily – and apply a mask from the mid-lengths to the ends on a weekly basis.