OUR GUIDE TO SOUTHEAST ASIA
Temples, cities and beaches: there’s so much to see
INDOCHINA
● Within Vietnam’s long, thin frame lie dramatic shows of mountains, coastal scenery, archaeological sites, medieval towns and indigenous hill tribes. As far as more conventional holiday pleasures are concerned, you’ll also enjoy wonderful food (less spicy than Thai, more interesting than Chinese), indulge in irresistible shopping and, crucial to its performance as a winter sun destination, laze on a peach of a beach, such as on the island of Phu Quoc.
It makes sense to start at one end and leave from the other, hopscotching along the way. Highlights include Halong Bay, best cruised by traditional junk among the archipelago of hairy-coated islands that rise from the waters like dragons’ teeth; Hanoi, an elegant, delightfully old-fashioned, surprisingly leafy city and the final resting place of Ho Chi Minh, who lies in a glass sarcophagus; Hue, former imperial city whose Citadel is enclosed by a 10-kilometre-long, 10-metre-thick red brick wall; Hoi An, a delightful port city little changed since its 16th and 17th-century ‘golden age’; and Ho Chi Minh City, formerly Saigon, a brash tiger of a town, yet still with plenty of historic landmarks and war memorabilia (it’s also within excursion range of the Viet Cong’s Cu Chi tunnels). ● Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world, is the must-see in Cambodia. The legacy of the Khmer Empire was smothered by jungle, with fig trees and giant creepers still embracing many structures. You can fly into Siem Reap, but a more enticing approach is by boat along the Mekong from Phnom Penh. For beach retreats, head to the white sands of the southern coast and islands off Sihanoukville. ● Landlocked Laos is a place to absorb a traditional, rural and deeply Buddhist lifestyle set against a backdrop of mountains, forests, rivers and rice paddies. Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the best preserved city in Southeast Asia, with dozens of religious sites. For faded French colonial charm, include riverside Vientiane or Pakse on your itinerary.
MYANMAR
...which was formerly known as Burma, has become one of the decade’s must-see destinations. Highlights are many, arguably topped by the temples and pagodas of Bagan, a sight especially enthralling from the perspective of a hot air balloon ride at sunrise. Yangon, a city with a rich heritage, is also unmissable, including the Shwedagon Pagoda and the giant reclining Buddha, plus colonial buildings dating from its Rangoon days. Even if your itinerary is land based, we recommend including at least a mini cruise on the Irrawaddy, sailing to Mandalay past bamboo villages and monasteries that soar above the forest canopy and ruined temples. Or consider a cruise among the undeveloped, mostly uninhabited islands of the Mergui Archipelago, whose beaches are drop-dead gorgeous.
THAILAND
A rich blend of very different experiences. You can combine city sights, lush green and well-contoured rural scenery, culture from exotic temples to remote hill tribes, terrific food – with cookery lessons for those wanting to acquire the skills – bargainbasement night markets and affordable spa therapies. Plus, beaches that will make your eyes pop: white sands, swaying palms and clear, warm waters.
The perfect Thai holiday combines a triangle of pleasures: city, countryside and beach. Start in Bangkok; steamy hot and manic, but enthralling with temples, river trips, shopping and massages on the menu. Then fly to Chiang Mai, its moated inner core a gentler experience than the capital, with easy access to the countryside and hill tribes. Finally, wind down in the best beachfront hotel you can afford in, say, Phuket, the Khao Lak coast or Krabi.
INDONESIA
To most visitors, this destination means Bali. Hinduism is the essence of Balinese life, a daily embrace of ceremonies and rituals, soothsayers and offerings, temples and statuary, all living in gentle harmony. Much of Bali’s beauty lies inland, its hills tiered by emerald rice paddies, its villages, including Ubud, the cultural hub, famous for its arts and crafts. For the most stunning beaches, head for the neighbouring island of Lombok. Indonesia is also the planet’s largest archipelago, made up of thousands of volcanic islands, including Komodo, home to the famous dragons, which roam the area like modern-day dinosaurs.
MALAYSIA
A delightful mish mash of all things Asiatic, it’s also a three-in-one destination – a mix of mainland, coast and massive Borneo.
First stop is Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur. Once a rip-roaring frontier town and a den of opium and iniquity, it’s now a thriving metropolis where a dozen different ethnic communities thrive in the shadow of the soaring Petronas Towers.
Malaysia is one country in Southeast Asia where you can self-drive. Malacca (Melaka), one of the oldest and most attractive towns in the country, is an essential stop, its looks stamped by the presence of the Dutch, the Portuguese and the British.
You should also visit the Cameron Highlands, where, in the 19th-century, expats escaped the high humidity of summer and, for the best beach retreat, the islands of Langkawi, blessed with white beaches lapped by the Andaman Sea.
Borneo, the world’s third-largest island, is home to two Malaysian enclaves, Sabah and Sarawak. The thickly jungled regions offer something in short supply elsewhere in Southeast Asia… wildlife. Proboscis monkeys, which are unique to Borneo, flying squirrels, pigmy elephants and, most famously, the orangutan, or ‘old man of the forest’.