We do like to be beside THE SEASIDE

There’s nothing like a trip to the beach to make us feel nostalgic and just a little bit happier. With unbeatable seascapes, coastal paths, wildlife, ballrooms, art, music and, of course, the seafood and ice cream, what’s not to love? Travel editor David

There was a time when the great British seaside was our go-to holiday destination, but then we Brits found Spain, and lots of sunshine. So it was goodbye Blackpool, hello Benidorm!

Recently, though, the UK’S coastal resorts have been making a bit of a comeback. Gone are the curmudgeonly hoteliers, shared bathrooms, swirly carpets and meat-and-two-veg dinners. Nowadays, coastal resort hotels have a very chic New England look: think pale wood combined with light grey and taupe. We can now enjoy delicious seafood restaurants and swim in seas that won’t give us bubonic plague. What’s more, visiting the British seaside doesn’t

have to involve overcrowded airports, delayed flights, legroom issues, lost baggage or striking workers. In fact, wherever you live, the seaside is pretty much just down the road: nowhere in Britain lies more than 70 miles from the coast, which makes a short break very doable indeed.

And what of the weather? Sure, it might rain. But you might like to know before you jet off across the world in search of perfect skies that in August the West Country has less rainfall than Miami, Fiji, Acapulco, the Maldives, Bermuda, Barbados, Perth and Bangkok.

But where should you go for the best of the British seaside? Here are my recommendations, with a focus on those that offer a little more than just being beside the sea…

ISLAND-HOP AROUND SCILLY

Think of the Isles of Scilly as the UK’S very own South Sea islands; they’re so different and exotic compared with the rest of the country that you might feel you need a visa and an armful of jabs. You don’t, though, as they’re very much part of the British Isles, albeit a very pretty corner. We’d suggest staying on one island and visiting the others from that base. From the quayside of St Mary’s, the main island, a daily armada of open-topped launches travels to a selection of the islands, including the other four that are inhabited: St Agnes, Bryher, St Martin’s and Tresco, famous for its subtropical gardens (islesofscilly-travel.co.uk). Consider staying at the Star Castle (see page 162).

GO ON A CASTLE HUNT IN NORTHUMBERLAND

The 60 or so miles of protected Northumbrian coastline are guarded by immense castles: Bamburgh, perched high on a plug of igneous rock above an empty expanse of beach, is a classic of awesome, lonely drama (bamburghcastle.com); while Alnwick, known as the ‘Windsor of the North’ is unmistakably tough and medieval from without but a Renaissance treasure trove within (alnwickcastle.com). Other historic sites include Holy Island and the spooky ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, while wildlife lovers should step aboard a boat from Seahouses to the Farne Islands, home to a colony of puffins (farne-islands.com).

DEVOUR THE SEAFOOD IN CORNWALL

Before Rick Stein came on the scene, options for seafood on the coast were more or less confined to chippies and stalls on the prom selling whelks and winkles. But since he opened The Seafood Restaurant in 1975, Stein’s empire in Padstow, Cornwall, has expanded to embrace four other eateries, a deli, a patisserie, a gift shop, hotels, self-catering accommodation, a fishmonger, a bar and a cookery school, plus many others around the UK (rickstein.com).

GET WET AND WILD IN SALCOMBE

The Salcombe estuary in Devon, topographically a ria or drowned valley, is the perfect spot to enjoy being both on and in the water. Activities include high-speed rib rides, coasteering, dinghy sailing (with lessons for learners), self-drive motor boating, paddleboarding, kayaking, hopping on ferries to sandy beaches and watching the races during the annual regatta, from 3-10 August. Coast and Country offers 146 holiday lets in the town, 81 with sea views (coastandcountry.co.uk).

SET OFF ON A SCENIC WALK IN PEMBROKESHIRE

Britain’s only coastal national park, Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, is bordered by 186 miles of official walking trail, which twists and turns its way up and down through some of the most breathtaking maritime scenery in the UK. From St Dogmaels in the north to Amroth in the south, the trail covers almost every kind of shorescape, including rugged clifftops, sheltered coves, wide-open beaches and winding estuaries. But bear in mind that it also has climbs adding up to more than the height of Everest – you may need your hiking boots (nt.pcnpa.org.uk).

BE ARTY IN MARGATE

You could be forgiven for thinking that Margate was a bit old hat. Yes, it was one of Britain’s original seaside resorts and, yes, it was the first to introduce bathing machines and deckchairs. But thanks to some arty upgrades and modern tweaks, specifically the arrival of the Turner Contemporary art gallery, the cool waterfront Sands hotel (see page 162), a stylish makeover for the Dreamland theme park and a high-speed train link from London, Margate is very much relevant these days. The big news for art lovers this year is the Turner Contemporary’s first photography exhibition, appropriately themed on the British seaside from the 1850s to the present, which runs until 8 September. The gallery will then host the Turner Prize (from 28 September until 12 January 2020; turnercontemporary.org).

HIT THE OPEN ROAD IN SCOTLAND

The road from Oban to Cape Wrath, the remote, desolate and most north-westerly point of the British mainland, has unbeatable seascapes. There’s a mix of ocean and lochs on one flank, mountains on the other and a miscellany of lighthouses and castles, beaches, seals and sea birds in between. The route is right up there in the global league of spectacular corniche cruising, alongside the Californian Big Sur coast, Italy’s Amalfi drive, the crinkle-cut shores of Maine and the deep ins-and-outs of Norwegian fjord country (visitscotland.com).

ENJOY THE ICONIC FUN OF BLACKPOOL

‘Bold, brash and ugly, but a barrel load of fun.’ That’s how a Blackpool tourist officer once described the home of seaside sauciness. Built on the premise that if it’s not yet raining it soon will be, the town’s roster of mostly undercover activities is astounding, topped off by the Grade I-listed Tower, which houses a circus and playground as well as the ballroom. And the legendary illuminations? They run from August until October (theblackpooltower.com).

TUNE INTO MUSIC IN SUFFOLK

Throughout August, musicians from around the world converge to perform in the old Maltings at Snape, just inland from Aldeburgh. Best to book ahead, although 20 tickets do go on sale each day at 10am (snapemaltings.co.uk). On the weekend of the 17th, you can also enjoy Aldeburgh’s 170-year-old carnival, which includes a float procession led by a military band and fireworks on the beach (aldeburghcarnival.com). Stay at The Wentworth (see panel, right).