The investigative journalist
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Cleanser and SPF are the ‘bread’ of your skincare sandwich
Having spent 25 years as a beauty editor, the author of new book Great Skin: Secrets The Beauty Industry Doesn’t Tell
You, Ingeborg van Lotringen, knows her myths from her must-haves.
There’s no reason a moisturiser should cost £300.
At that price, you’re paying for marketing rather than any solid ingredients. I would rather visit a dermatologist for a prescription-strength retinoid or buy from brands that have scientific credentials at their core, such as is Clinical or Medik8. Cleanser and SPF are the ‘bread’ of your skincare sandwich. In between, there should be a serum with potent antioxidants or anti-inflammatory ingredients to treat your specific issues. The cleanser and SPF prepare and protect the skin, so if you’re not using those, everything else is redundant. I use a hydrating sunscreen as my everyday moisturiser. It means I don’t have the additional cost of buying a separate day cream. My favourites are Teoxane Advanced Perfecting Shield SPF30 [1], £52, and Tropic Sun Day Facial UV Defence SPF50 [2], £24.
I’d spend more on a cleanser to avoid detergent-like sulphates. These can strip the skin’s protective barrier, causing dryness and irritation. If you prefer a foaming face wash, there are milder ingredients such as the coconut-derived sodium cocoyl isethionate found in Korres Greek Yoghurt Foaming Cream Cleanser [3], £18. Balms and oil cleansers should be free of sulphates; I rate Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Balm
[6], £25, and Time Bomb Peace & Quiet Coconut Cleansing Oil [4], £25.
Any product is a waste of money if you
don’t know your skin type. If you’re not sure what yours is, stripping back your routine can help you work out whether you’re oily, dry, combination or sensitive. Use a simple cleanser such as Curél Makeup Cleansing Gel, £12.50, then a calming, fragrance-free moisturiser with hydrating glycerin, hyaluronic acid and ceramides (I like Cerave PM Facial Moisturising Lotion [5], £9.50) and a lightweight SPF. Use for at least a week, and see how your skin behaves.