Are our clothes POLLUTING THE SEAS?
Each time we wash and wear clothes made from synthetic fabrics, they release thousands of tiny plastic fibres into the environment – and many of these microplastics end up in our seas. The GHI investigates what’s being done to tackle the problem.
Most of us have heard of microplastics; the miniscule pieces of plastic that are building up in our rivers and oceans. In 2018, growing concern over the environmental threat posed by these tiny pollutants prompted the government to ban the use of plastic microbeads in cosmetics such as shower gel and exfoliants.
THE PROBLEM WITH OUR CLOTHES
While the ban was a step in the right direction, microbead-containing cosmetics are just one of many sources of microplastic, and experts agree this type of pollution is worsening. Some microplastics are created when plastic litter breaks down; others come from less obvious sources. A car tyre, for example, will shed up to 30% of its weight in microplastic particles over its lifetime**. Now, the spotlight is on yet another microplastic polluter: clothes.
More than two-thirds of the fibres used in new clothes are synthetics, such as polyester, acrylic or nylon†. When we wash garments made from synthetics, huge numbers of plastic microfibres are released and not all of them are filtered out in water treatment facilities. They can then enter rivers and seas, where they may be eaten by wildlife. So many end up in the sea that the Marine Conservation Society (MCS) says almost two-thirds of shrimp in the North Sea contain synthetic fibres, which means microfibres could end up on our plates. This has led to the MCS’S call for all new washing machines to be fitted with microfibre filters by 2023.
COMING OUT IN THE WASH
Washing machine manufacturers, such as Beko and Miele, have been working on developing this kind of filtration technology, but Miele tells us that it is
unlikely to be a standard feature for some time. A Miele spokesperson explains that because such a fine mesh is required, it would catch all the solid matter released in the wash. ‘This would include soil, hairs and even some ingredients of washing detergents,’ they say. ‘So the filters would clog fast.’
They could also make washing machines less energy efficient. ‘With such a fine mesh, water would have to be forced through it,’ explains Julian Kirby, lead plastic pollution campaigner at Friends of the Earth. ‘This would require more energy, which could have a climate change impact as well as adding to the cost of running the appliance.’
Research has also shown that, over the course of a year, our clothes could release more microfibres as we wear them than they do when we wash them††. And it’s not just our clothes that release plastic microfibres, but any textiles made using synthetic fibres.
FINDING A SOLUTION
So, is the answer to avoid buying anything made from synthetic fibres? Not according to Friends of the Earth, which warns that switching wholesale to natural alternatives such as cotton could just cause other environmental problems. ‘Cotton farming is associated with some of the highest levels of pesticide use and requires vast amounts of water – something that’s made all the worse by the fact it’s grown in dry areas,’ says Julian.
Some scientists believe that part of the solution lies in the development of textiles that shed fewer microfibres. ‘Research suggests it’s possible to reduce the number of microfibres our clothes shed by around 80% through the design of yarns and fabrics,’ says Professor Richard Thompson, head of the International Marine Litter Research Unit at the University of Plymouth. In the meantime, there are things we can do at home to reduce microfibres released in the wash.
Run a full load (a three-quarters full drum is best‡) and select a slower spin cycle to reduce friction during the wash cycle.
Use shorter, cooler wash cycles. University of Northumbria researchers found 30% fewer microfibres were released in a 30-minute, 15°C wash than in an 85-minute 40°C wash.
Make the most of the clothes you have.
New clothes release more microfibres in each wash than older clothes do.
Wash synthetic clothes and textiles using a microfibre catcher, such as the Guppyfriend laundry bag (£25, ethicalsuperstore.com), or a Cora Ball (£29.94, babipur.co.uk).