THINNING HAIR & VOLUME LOSS... ANOTHER RESULT OF THE PANDEMIC
It’s the lockdown legacy that doesn’t seem to be slowing down and if, like us, you are worried about shedding too many strands, it’s time for some smart solutions to help your hair make a comeback
Nurture lockdown locks
There is an impressive list of suspects that could be responsible for your hair falling out – problems with hormones, diet, thyroid, iron levels and more – but right now, if your plughole, shower and hairbrush are overloaded with strands, stress is top of that list of possible culprits – and we don’t have to spell out why. Soon after dermatologist and hair growth specialist Dr Sharon Wong’s clinic at The Shard in London reopened last June, she began seeing more women whose hair had been affected by stress. ‘Approximately 60-70% of our hair patients had hair loss (telogen effluvium) related to either being unwell from Covid-19 and/or experiencing extreme stress from work, financial worries or health anxiety,’ says Dr Wong (drsharonwong.com). And, unfortunately, the more you worry about your hair, the more you stress and the more your hair can fall out.
HOW STRESS GETS TO HAIR
Hair grows and sheds in phases. The growing phase can last for two to seven years (that is why some of us reach great lengths and others struggle to cultivate a bob!) before it slips into a resting phase of about three months, where it stops growing but stays put. Finally, resting strands are released as new growth comes through. So far, so normal. Then, along comes stress, which includes a major spike of the hormone cortisol. This is thought to have an impact on hairs in the growing phase, prompting strands to move too early into the resting phase. Weeks down the line, when that stressful event may have passed, the major fallout can occur.
HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH?
We normally shed 50-100 hairs a day, but telogen effluvium can more than double that. So, how do we know when we are losing more hair than normal? ‘It’s really just noticing more strands than you usually do coming out when you randomly run your hands through your hair,’ says Harley Street trichologist Sara G Allison (hairlossconsultant.co.uk). ‘You may notice hair on your desk, pillows, food and floors – places you wouldn’t normally expect it. Any other more gradual loss of hair, such as wider partings, could be due to other causes, including female pattern hair loss.’
WILL IT GROW BACK?
The good news is that the answer is yes, but it will take a while and you’ll need lots of patience while it does. ‘Provided the stress triggers are identified and resolved, the hair cycle will start to resynchronise, but this takes time,’ says Dr Wong. ‘Often, the first sign of recovery is that the amount of hair shed gradually reverts back to the normal baseline – this usually happens three to six months after correcting the cause. Restoring lost volume, however, is a more gradual process and can take up to a year or more.’
Hair helpers
Nothing will make hair return at speed, so keep your cool and concentrate on encouraging what’s coming through to be as healthy and strong as it can be, with diet, mindfulness and more.
1 KEEP CALM
If stress is the chief culprit, try to ease angst with relaxation techniques. Meditation and mindfulness are great for de-stressing, but need to be practised daily and we should incorporate them into our haircare routines, suggests mindfulness expert Amy Malloy (amysyogaclub.com).
As you lather your shampoo, make smooth, sweeping circles with your fingers around your scalp. Give yourself a gentle massage around the hairline, ears and back of the neck. Take slow breaths in and out in an even rhythm.
Continue with this rhythmic breathing, following the inhale until it becomes the exhale, then the exhale until it becomes the inhale. As you rinse, massage the hairline, ears and scalp again. Notice the sensations as you do it. Focus on the sensation of the water running down your skin.
Try a 20-second blast of cold water to finish, breathing out slow and long through the mouth to let go of resistance
and relax into the feeling.
2 LOVE YOUR GUT
A happy gut microbiome can help healthy hair. Hair follicles can be affected by inflammation, with high levels said to slow hair growth. So, it makes sense to encourage good gut bacteria with natural probiotics and supplements. ‘To support the microbiome (and potentially hair health), regularly include fermented foods in your diet, such as sauerkraut, kefir, kombucha, kimchi, miso or plain live yogurt,’ recommends nutritional therapist Hannah Braye. ‘Or consider taking a good-quality live bacteria supplement.’ Try Bio-kult Boosted with Vitamin B, £24.98 for 30 capsules, bio-kult.com.
3 SKIP THE DIET
Avoid any drastic weight-loss diets, as they are stressful on the body and may also result in hair loss. Instead, eat healthily to give your hair the steady supply of nutrients it needs as it grows. ‘As hair isn’t an essential tissue, our body never prioritises its needs – especially from a nutritional standpoint – and it’s given last dibs on whatever you eat,’ says trichologist Anabel Kingsley.
Up your protein ‘A lack of protein will impact your strands before it affects the rest of you,’ says Anabel. ‘Without adequate protein, your hair can become weak and brittle and can break easily.’
Remember carbs They’re not as bad as they are sometimes thought
to be. ‘Carbohydrates are important!’ says Anabel Kingsley. ‘Complex carbs, such as wholegrains, are best, as they help give your hair a slow and sustained supply of energy to grow and keep growing.’
Check your iron ‘Iron deficiency is one of the most common causes of hair loss,’ says Anabel. Iron is important and we shouldn’t expect to get enough from vegetables. ‘Iron found in spinach contains non-haem iron, which is not so readily absorbed as haem iron found in red meat,’ says Anabel. If you think your hair loss is due to iron, don’t self-medicate; ask your GP for a blood test.
TOP 5 FOODS FOR HAIR
Eggs pack a powerful punch of essential amino acids (the building blocks of protein), which are important in the growth of strong strands.
Quinoa is one of the few plant-based forms of protein with all nine essential amino acids. It’s a great source of protein for vegans.
Salmon contains omega 3s, which are anti-inflammatory and support a healthy scalp. It’s an excellent source of protein, plus it contains vitamins D and B12.
Steak is a great source of iron and helps maintain healthy ferritin (stored iron) levels.
Skin-on potatoes are a fab complex carb and ideal if you’re gluten intolerant. They provide slow-release energy.
Trichologist Anabel Kingsley practises at the Philip Kingsley Clinic London; philipkingsley.co.uk.
4 TRY AROMATHERAPY
The beauty of an aromatherapy treatment is the glorious mix of hair- and scalp-friendly oils, plus a fragrance that helps sooth stress.
Top aromatherapist Glenda Taylor has a luscious recipe. ‘Apart from the fact that these oils will smell gorgeous together, they’re a tonic at the same time, helping to strengthen you physically and mentally,’ she says.
SOOTHING SCALP OIL
To a glass bottle add…
15ml (1tbsp) argan oil – it contains fatty acids that are restorative and nourishing for hair.
15ml (1tbsp) jojoba oil – it’s rich in minerals, vitamins B, C and E, copper and zinc, and is thought to strengthen hair and promote thickness.
2 drops cedarwood essential
oil – this is thought to help balance oil-producing glands in the scalp. It contains antifungal properties, which can treat conditions that may contribute to dandruff and hair loss.
2 drops rose geranium essential
oil – this is a natural hormone balancer that may help you ‘feel better’. It’s key to addressing stress-related problems. 2 drops clary sage essential
oil – this is said to stimulate hair follicles and is another hormone balancer.
HOW TO USE
Shake and apply a little to the scalp and through the hair. Cover every bit of the scalp with the oil by massaging with the tips of your fingers.
Take the massage down your neck and shoulders, which helps to stimulate the blood supply to your hair follicles to support growth and condition the hair and scalp.
Use a circular or tapping motion with the fingertips (anything that feels good) for two minutes as a minimum.
Concentrate on the scalp and finally take the oil through the hair to finish. Leave it for at least 20 minutes before shampooing and conditioning as normal. Repeat two or three times a week.
Organic base oils and essential oils, from £5, angelico.london.
Iron deficiency is one of the most common causes of hair loss
5 ADD SOME VITAMINS
The jury is out as to the value of taking supplements to boost hair growth, but this short list may support growth and has other potential benefits, too. Nutritional therapist Shona Wilkinson recommends…
Fish oils ‘Omega 3 works as an anti-inflammatory and therefore helps reduce hair follicle inflammation, which can lead to loss.’ Extra benefits? It’s good for the brain, heart, mood and immunity. Zinc ‘A lack of zinc can lead to alopecia and hair loss.’ Extra benefits? It helps with immunity and can reduce inflammation. B complex ‘B vitamins support the production of red blood cells, which carry oxygen and nutrients to the scalp and hair follicles, so it’s really important for hair growth.’ Extra benefits? It helps reduce stress and boosts mood and energy.
Vitamin D ‘Its role in hair growth isn’t fully understood, but a deficiency is linked to alopecia.’ Extra benefits?
It’s great for the immune system.
Shona Wilkinson is a registered nutritionist; shonawilkinson.com.
6 DON’T FORGET BIOTIN
Known as vitamin B7, biotin is often referred to as ‘food for the follicles’. ‘Studies have shown that biotin works for many women; as many as four in 10 found benefits in taking a biotin supplement for stopping hair loss,’ says pharmacist Shabir Daya. Try Solgar Biotin 5000ug, £12.99 for 50 capsules, victoriahealth.com.
7 REWORK YOUR STYLING
To boost your chances of hair growth, it’s worth giving your strands a sabbatical from too much heat and styling. What’s worth skipping?
Tight ponytails and buns Scraping hair back from the hairline can put strain on the hair follicles and strands, which can encourage breakage.
Weaves and plaits Take a break from these every now and then. The continued stress they create can harm hair permanently, causing traction alopecia and permanent hair loss.
Hot drying Too much heat can damage your hair and scalp. Try air-drying when you can, or blow-dry until it’s almost done, then let it finish off naturally. Choose a hairdryer with Nanoe technology to help moisture penetrate the hair for a soft, smooth and supple finish. Try the Panasonic NA98 Hairdryer (£99.99, Amazon) – it was voted the best model in our GHI 2020 hairdryer test.
8 TREAT HAIR LIKE SKIN
Follow a routine that mimics your beauty ritual. Bring on the cleanse, nourish, tone mantra, but this time, for your scalp. It’s an idea to try the following regime:
Cleanse Keep your scalp healthy with regular shampooing.
Nourish Use a conditioner but keep it for mid to ends of the hair only.
Tone After shampooing, use a scalp toner or stimulating drops.
Treat Use a targeted hair mask weekly. Choose a stimulating one if you are experiencing hair loss.