THE DRIVES OF YOUR LIFE: SWEDEN
The great outdoors doesn’t get much greater than the beautiful rugged coast of west Sweden, as Susan Ward Davies discovers when she hits the road
Enjoy magnificent Scandi scenery
THE ROUTE
Gothenburg to the Svinesund Bridge, Norwegian border, 185.4km
Apart from the exorbitant price of alcohol, the Swedes have a great way of life. If I ever moved there, it would be to the Bohuslän coast, the wildly beautiful rocky stretch of west Sweden that runs from Gothenburg to the Norwegian border, with its 8,000 islands dotted with summer houses, and temperatures in the early-to-mid 20s from June. The E6 follows the coastline, making it the easiest route, and you can branch off to seaside towns as you go.
You’ll cross between islands on massive bridges soaring over inlets of the Skagerrak strait, whizz through rich farmland, forests of pine and silver birch, villages of red and white clapboard houses, and past the luna-like, pink granite rocks between Lysekil and Fjällbacka. It’s a land of seals and seabirds, cosy cafes with outside benches strewn with colourful blankets; fishing boats, sailing folk and lots and lots of seafood.
From Gothenburg, take the E6 and route 168 north-west to the pretty, car-free island of Marstrand, 47.4km away. An hour north from there, you’ll cross an impressive bridge to the island of Tjörn, where you’ll find Skärhamn’s wonderful Nordic Watercolour Museum. This is only 10 minutes by car from the former herring hotspot island of Klädesholmen, with its tiny village and floating hotel. Continue on route 162 and the E6 up to Lysekil, and on to Fjällbacka, where Ingrid Bergman spent many happy summers. From here, drive up to Strömstad for the ferry to the car-free Koster Islands, a wildlife paradise, and on to see Europe’s most beautiful border crossing, the magnificent Svinesund Bridge over Iddefjord to Norway, before a straight run back to Gothenburg.
THE PIT STOPS
GOTHENBURG
Canals, cobblestones, outdoor cafes and trams rattling across bridges – Sweden’s coastal second city is fun, friendly and walkable. Make time for the Garden Society of Gothenburg, with its 19th-century glass Palm House (tradgardsresan.se); the Gothenburg Museum of Art, which has one of northern Europe’s finest art collections (goteborgskonstmuseum.se), and shopping along pedestrianised Magasinsgatan.
HAGA
One of Gothenburg’s oldest and prettiest neighbourhoods is peppered with shops and restaurants in distinctive Landshövdingehus-style buildings: one floor brick, the rest wood.
MARSTRAND
Hop on the two-minute ferry from Koön to Sweden’s lovely sailing capital. You’ll find colourful houses, cobbled streets, sleek yachts, the Carlstens Fortress and scenic walking trails.
NORDIC WATERCOLOUR MUSEUM, SKÄRHAMN
Is this the world’s most beautiful museum setting? Right on the waterfront, the contemporary gallery houses Swedish favourites such as Andreas Eriksson and Lars Lerin, as well as international greats like Salvador Dali and Louise Bourgeois. Five seafront self-catering guest studios serve the artists-in-residence programme, but tourists can book, too; from £95 a night (akvarellmuseet.org).
KLÄDESHOLMEN
This tiny, peaceful island village of 322 inhabitants had 25 canning factories at the height of the herring-industry boom but today, only one remains. Walk the lanes between the red-roofed wooden houses to see Swedish artist Claes Hake’s ‘Faith, Hope and Love’ sculpture.
Marstrand is a holiday haven if you like sailing
LYSEKIL
The traditional wooden houses of this former spa town spread out from two harbours. Wander through Gamlestaden, the oldest and loveliest part of town, full of cream and white clapboard houses. OYSTER AND MUSSEL SAFARI, LYSEKIL
Lars Marstone’s small wooden boat takes you to his tiny island of Karingeholmen. On the bracing three-hour trip, you’ll taste freshly picked oysters, get the lowdown on mussel and oyster farming, and lunch outside Lars’s rustic fishing shack on mussels in wine sauce; £90 for three hours, including lunch. March to November (lysekilsostronomusslor.se). SKAFTÖ ISLAND
Take the 18-minute ferry from Lysekil to Fiskebäckskil, one of pretty Skaftö’s five fishing villages. Among Fiskebäckskil’s simple wooden houses, you’ll see grander captains’ villas, with their gingerbread woodwork and verandahs. More time? Spend it kayaking, cycling and fishing. FJÄLLBACKA Nordic-noir aficionados will know that Fjällbacka-born novelist Camilla Läckberg set many of her thrillers in this picturesque fishing village. Ingrid Bergman spent her summers on the nearby islet of Dannholmen, and has a square named after her. Hike up the 74m-high Vetteberget mountain, towering over the village, to see Kungsklyftan ravine, then
yacht-watch over a bowl of mussels on the harbourfront.
VITLYCKE MUSEUM, TANUM
See thousands of Bronze Age rock art paintings at this UNESCO World Heritage Site, 14km north of Fjällbacka (vitlyckemuseum.se).
STRÖMSTAD AND THE KOSTER ISLANDS
Take the 45-minute ferry from the spa town of Strömstad to north and south Koster Islands for hiking, swimming, snorkelling and cycling. Expect wild moorland, lighthouses, granite outcrops and trips to seal colonies in Sweden’s first national marine park, Kosterhavet.
SVINESUND AND HALDEN
If you want a peek at Norway, drive 26.6km north of Strömstad to the new bridge over spectacular Iddefjord.
THE RESTAURANTS
FISKBAR 17, Magasinsgatan, Gothenburg
Take a break from Magasinsgatan shopping at one of Fiskbar 17’s outdoor tables, or cosy up inside. We had the best prawn sandwiches here: butter-fried brioche with egg, pickled red onion, seaweed caviar and dill oil (fiskbar17.se). BARABICU, Gothenburg
As well as fish, the pan-american menu at this lively bar/restaurant will sort you out with steaks, burgers or coconut and carrot soup (barabicu.se).
LOTTAS BAK & FORM, Tjörn Island
A 15-minute walk from Salt & Sill hotel, Lottas cafe is perfect for ‘fika’ (see above right). Sit on the waterfront, or inside, warmed by the open bakery, for organic breads and pastries and delicious local Tegel cheese (lottasbakoform.se).
BRYGGHUSET, Skaftö
With its vintage-looking glassware and wooden rafters, Brygghuset feels like your elegant Swedish granny’s seaside house. Whisky lovers should try a dram or three of the bar’s 1,700 varieties before elk with red cabbage and lingonberries, or fried witch flounder with roasted celeriac (brygghusetkrog.se).
BRYGGAN CAFE & BISTRO, Fjällbacka
Order prawn sandwiches, fish burgers or mussels in wine on this buzzy seafront terrace (brygganfjallbacka.se). MAMSELL, Stora Hotellet
One of three restaurants at the hotel, Mamsell serves delicious farm- and sea-to-table Bohuslän cuisine with a twist, courtesy of award-winning chef Thomas Sjögren (shfjallbacka.se). VATTEN RESTAURANT & KAFE, Nordic Watercolour Museum
Take a scenic waterside table for exquisite hake with browned butter or grilled veal in red wine sauce (akvarellmuseet.org).
BACKLUNDS BAGERI, BISTRO & BAR, Strömstad
Stop for lunch or fika at this friendly harbourside bistro, while waiting for the Koster Islands ferry (backlunds.nu).
THE FOOD AND DRINK
With 12,000 different varieties of fresh seafood, Bohuslän is pescatarian heaven. Sweden’s ‘Big Five’ (shrimps, crayfish, lobster, oyster and mussels) grow slower in the colder water here, so are more tasty.
Fika is a big thing in Sweden. Roughly translating as ‘coffee break’, it means enjoying time with friends for mid-morning and/or mid-afternoon coffee, cinnamon buns, smorgas (open sandwiches) and other treats.
Lingonberries! The Swedes love these tart red berries and serve them with everything from meatballs to porridge.
Alcohol is very pricey in restaurants and can only be bought in government-run, Systembolaget stores, so stock up when you see one – you’ll be glad you did.
THE PLAYLIST
MUSIC TO MATCH THE RUGGED SCENERY… Hollow Talk by Choir Of Young Believers. The haunting theme tune to The Bridge.
Don’t You Worry Child by Swedish House Mafia, featuring John Martin. The Winner Takes It All by ABBA, though anything of theirs makes a great soundtrack.
Conversation by Sabina Ddumba, featuring Kojo Funds.
Follow Me Home by Esther.
THE HOTELS
HOTEL RIVERTON, Gothenburg
Book a river view in this stylish, 210-room hotel, a session in the spa’s hammam and a table for sundowners in the
12th floor View Skybar; doubles from £95, B&B (riverton.se).
SALT & SILL, Klädesholmen
In the little herring fishing hamlet of Klädesholmen, this quirky ‘boatel’ has 25 rooms on floating pontoons, all as compact and neat as a ship’s cabin. Fancy a swim? Open your door and dive into the sea, then recover on the sauna boat; doubles from £121, B&B (saltosill.se). STRANDFLICKORNA, Lysekil
Perched among the granite rocks, this 19th-century villa overlooks Gullmarn Fjord. Choose from 21 rooms with pretty wallpaper and vintage dressing tables, or two seafront cottages; doubles from £137, B&B (strandflickorna.com).
STORA HOTELLET, Fjällbacka
Right in the heart of Fjällbacka, this former 19th-century inn has 23 rooms themed on the travels of the fictitious Captain Klassen. Our favourite? The Marco Polo suite for its fabulous harbour-view rooftop terrace; doubles from around £164, B&B, (shfjallbacka.se). LANDVETTER AIRPORT HOTEL, Gothenburg
A few minutes on foot from the terminal, this stylish hotel has original works by Swedish artists, and a great bar/restaurant; doubles from around £150, B&B (landvetterairporthotel.se).
THE ROUTE INSPIRATION
What to read and watch to get you in the mood… The Ice Princess by Camilla Läckberg. This tale of murder and intrigue, from one of Sweden’s most prolific crime writers, is set in her hometown.
The Hundred-year-old Man Who Climbed Out Of The Window And
Disappeared by Jonas Jonasson. Funny and highly imaginative story of a centenarian’s extraordinary adventures. Beartown by Fredrik Backman. Gripping tale about a Swedish youth hockey team. Dark Pines by Will Dean. Atmospheric Scandi thriller from a British expat.
A Man Called Ove by Fredrik Backman. Touching tale about a grumpy Swedish widower and an unexpected friendship.
The Bridge Search Netflix, BBC iplayer and All 4 for Sweden’s cult crime drama.
Fanny & Alexander Director Ingmar Bergman’s lavish film about a 20th-century Swedish family.