‘I RESPECTED FOOD FROM AN EARLY AGE’
Chef Clare Smyth on culinary success and Michelin stars
Clare Smyth broke new ground this year when she became the first British female chef ever to have their restaurant awarded three Michelin stars. She talks to Janet Harmer about celebrating with a pizza, how Gordon Ramsay helped propel her to the top and the thrill of cooking for royalty
In the male-dominated kitchens of fine-dining restaurants, Clare Smyth has reached the pinnacle. As a teenager growing up on a farm in Northern Ireland, she set her sights on getting to the top and from the time she arrived in England at the age of 16, she was seeking out the best restaurants in the UK and abroad to learn her craft.
Working at Restaurant
Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea, London, in 2002 proved a pivotal point in Clare’s career. Over three years, she worked her way up the ranks of the three-michelin-starred eaterie to become senior sous chef, before deciding to expand her knowledge of classical French cuisine by joining Le Louis XV in Monte Carlo with chef Alain Ducasse. Returning to London in 2007, she was appointed head chef at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and promoted again five years later to chef patron.
In 2017, she launched her own restaurant, Core by Clare Smyth, in Notting Hill, London. She was recognised for her services to the hospitality industry with an MBE and named the World’s Best Female Chef in 2018. When Core was awarded three Michelin stars earlier this year, Clare became one of only two female chefs in the UK, alongside French chef Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, London, and the first ever British woman to have a restaurant win the ultimate accolade.
Clare, 42, is married to financier Grant Heath, and they live in London.
How did you feel when Core was awarded three Michelin stars?
I really was not expecting it. It had been such a difficult year, so it came as a lovely surprise. It really does mean everything to everyone at the restaurant as three Michelin stars is the ultimate accolade in our profession. Achieving this felt different from when I was with Gordon Ramsay, as it was confirmation that I could achieve the award on my own.
How did you celebrate?
We couldn’t celebrate in the way we would have liked to because of the pandemic. But I was with my husband, Grant, and a small number of my team and we enjoyed pizza and Champagne.
What are your earliest memories of food?
I grew up on a farm, with dairy cattle, beef cattle and sheep in Northern Ireland, and my aunt and uncle were potato farmers, so food was always incredibly important to us as a family. I understood from an early age the need to respect ingredients and that it took from dawn to dusk, 365 days a year, to produce the food we eat.
What inspired you to become a chef?
I worked at a local fine-dining restaurant during the school holidays; most of the chefs there came from Michelin-starred restaurants in England. I was attracted to the glamorous, creative side of the industry and I knew that I wanted to aim for the very top. So I moved to England to study catering when I was 16.
What were the highlights of your early career?
After studying at Highbury College in Portsmouth, I joined Bibendum restaurant, and loved every minute. Simon Hopkinson was the chef. His cookbook, Roast Chicken And Other Stories, is still one of my favourites.
I later went to Australia, where I gained experience of many different styles of food, particularly Pacific Rim cuisine.
You first worked for Gordon Ramsay in 2002. How did he inspire you?
Stepping into Gordon’s restaurant for the first time was unlike anything I’d
experienced before. Gordon was totally supportive and he encouraged me to take on responsibility. He helped me overcome my shyness so that I was able to lead a team. It was a tough working environment; long hours and hard work was expected. But that never worried me as I was so focused on my cooking and determined to succeed.
How would you describe yourself as a boss?
You would have to ask my team! I think I’m generous and nurturing. For me, education is very important and I make sure everyone receives intensive training.
Giving the staff the skills and knowledge to do the job well breeds confidence and competence.
How would you describe Core?
It is a modern British, fine-dining restaurant, providing elegance and luxury. Everything is sourced from within the UK – the cutlery, plates and furniture, as well as the produce. Winning three stars is down to a combination of fantastic quality of product, creativity, technique, personality and authenticity. Ultimately, it is about consistency. I was told that we received eight inspections before being awarded the stars.
The world of fine dining has long been male-dominated. Do you see change happening?
I do. The team at Core is split 50/50 between men and women. But more needs to be done to encourage women. The kitchen is now much more professional and respected than it was in the past and the next generation regard it as a more acceptable place to work.
I think I’m a generous and nurturing boss
What advice would you give to a woman looking to become a top chef?
I would say: ‘Work for the very best chefs and listen to every piece of advice they give you. Work hard and be dedicated.’ During the time I was with Gordon, I went to work for Alain Ducasse at Le Louis XV in Monte Carlo, which is regarded as one of the best restaurants in the word. Being in Monaco helped me understand a certain lifestyle. Everything about living and working there is glamorous; the cutlery and teapots were gold!
How did you adapt the business during the pandemic?
We launched a delivery service, Core at Home. We have been sending out around 800 five-course tasting menus at £175 per head every month. We’ve also been undertaking a fair amount of charity work. During the first lockdown, we provided 600 meals every week for the local community and the NHS. In the third lockdown, we teamed up with beef supplier Highland Wagyu and local restaurant Eggslut to prepare 4,000 Big Thank You burgers for NHS staff.
In normal times, how do you relax?
Work pretty much takes up all my time. The thing I really like to do to relax is to go on safari; I absolutely love it, it’s an escape from everything. My husband grew up in South Africa, so safaris are very special for him.
You have spent a lot more time at home than usual during the past year – how have you filled the time?
I’ve read more, started French lessons again and I’ve been walking with my lovely West Highland Terrier, Storm. I’ve also cooked at home, which is not something I usually do as Grant and I love to eat out when I’m not working. It was good fun to cook at home at the beginning of lockdown, but I’m fed up with it now!
You prepared the menu for the evening function at the wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Sussex. How did that come about?
The Duke and Duchess had dined at Core and that’s how I was introduced to them. It was a great privilege and huge fun for myself and the team to be involved in the wedding.
How do you see the future for Core?
We hope to be able to get back to normal in terms of the capacity of the restaurant and the way in which we run it. There will be huge losses in the wider industry; many businesses have taken on debt to get through the crisis and I expect this will be reflected in increased prices. We had to delay launching our restaurant in Sydney, Australia, but I hope to be able to go there in May or June now to oversee the opening. • Clare has contributed her recipes to Chefs At Home (Jon Croft Editions) in aid of Hospitality Action, out now